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Discussion Starter #82
Nah, I ended up going with bar ends instead for some slide protection. I tried to put moose racing bars on but they aren't going to fit something with this much rise and this narrow. They were great on my CRF450 supermoto though.

Somewhere in the midst of this build thread I mentioned that. I suspect the "stubby" kind that bolt closer to the grip would fit better. Like these Acerbis Tri-Fit models.



If you happen to try them, let me know how they work. I would still rather have handguards than bar ends.

What sucks about forums like this is that on the first page I said I was putting Moose Racing handguards on. They later turned out not to fit, but the first post can't be edited anymore to let people know right away they don't work.

I'm pretty excited about trying the Motorplex at Road America. It's got buttery smooth 100% new asphalt all the way around this year. There's going to be some serious corner railing going on there!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Once I get my bike here and start looking at it, I'd be interested in discussing the custom rearset topic with you. I have some very rough ideas, but they may be trying to take the seating position in a different direction than you are thinking.
So far I have to say I kinda like the riser footpegs I put on. I have them set up to move the footpegs back 25 mm and up about 5 mm. Leaving the shift lever where it is, it gives my foot a little more room to get under it, It seems like a mod that might benefit people in the height range of 5'-10" or higher. It's just enough to allow my knees to fit under the ridges in the gas tank.
 

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Are you sitting on the driver portion of the seat, or sliding back to the passenger portion? I'm thinking that lower bars and sliding back might get this into a sport style of seating and might go around corners better/faster. So hard to guess from my short test ride. Maybe Sunday will be nice enough weather to put in some time and play a little. Need to get break in miles put on it before it sees the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
My F1 is a KAYO MR125 which is a clone NSF100 with a clone TTR125 motor. Pretty fast with the mods I've done, but I still have a lot of body position issues I need to work on, and it's cramped. My website minigp-racing.com
Oh I forgot to chat about this. Those Kayo bikes look really cool and I almost bought one for myself. The other bike that was on my radar was a MetraKit 125 pre-gp bike. Holy crap those things were fast, and someone local imported a bunch of them. They use a Husky 125 2 stroke motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Are you sitting on the driver portion of the seat, or sliding back to the passenger portion? I'm thinking that lower bars and sliding back might get this into a sport style of seating and might go around corners better/faster. So hard to guess from my short test ride. Maybe Sunday will be nice enough weather to put in some time and play a little. Need to get break in miles put on it before it sees the track.
When I'm on a straight, I scoot back on the seat a bit and rest my helmet chin on the protaper pad. But for everything else, I'm on the normal part of the seat. The only real issue I have then is that my elbow and knee kinda want to be in the same place when I'm hanging off in a turn. I give me knee priority and resist the urge to try to get an elbow down. :D
 

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The Metrakit are nice, but not road legal, same with the KAYO even though it has a full charging system inside.

I managed to ride my Z around a little yesterday, it is night and day different from the power of my modded KAYO. Wish I could get the KAYO street legal, that thing blasts when compared to my Z. Z needs rearset installed and modified for reverse shift like my other bikes.

Anyway, got a couple of questions on gearing, what are people using on Kart tracks for gears? I'm thinking the stock gears are not what will work out well and not sure if I want a -1 in the front, or a +1 in the front. First gear seems kind of useless right now, so a longer (+1) front might get it into a little more useful range. Not sure how that will impact the other gears as I go around the corners on the track. A -1 would certainly help the other gears spin the wheel up quicker, but then first gear is going to be pretty much a waste and I'll probably want to run 2 through 4 for everything including start line.

Right now, my KAYO (consider it a TTR125) with -1 front is just about perfect on the track for my current skill level. Second gear at low speed around the hair pin and almost the top of five at the straight (will be top of five when I can reach a higher entry speed). All details of the KAYO build can be found on my website (link in signature for those that are interested). 13:1, Mikuni TM24 flat slide, BBR cam, lightened flywheel, head clean up with dimples in the intake, and lapped valves. Goes like stink now and runs one class above Grom/z125.

Also the clutch, what can I do without swapping parts to give it more feel? I need to adjust the cable a little because it lets out all the way at the end and I want a little more free play to make sure it is engaged. After that I doubt there is much I can do without stronger springs and different friction material, but not sure my stock rules allow this to happen.

After that I have about $600 in bolt on parts here or an the way, going to try and do a video build series which should be entertaining since I know some stuff will need to be modified. Went with the expensive (and heavy) T-Rex frame sliders because they looked the nicest and seemed to be nice and strong. Cheap axle sliders, the passenger peg sliders from Man in the Box. Spreading money around as equally as possible but a lot coming from Amazon because I'm buying a lot of the cheaper direct from China stuff to try and make this a budget stock class track build. Need to pull the forks eventually and change oil, might put some internal spacers on the springs to give a little preload. Or might break down and do the Ohlins internals (allowed by the rules), wish there was something that I could do to the shock, only thing allowed is a different spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I am running factory gearing. At my local kart tracks 1st is only used for take off and I roll in 2nd and 3rd for the whole track. On one of the straights I'm just about topping out third. For me it might pay to go taller, or possibly shorter and spend a little time in 4th. But taller would work better because I know I would end up needing a shift in mid turn here and there

If your track is relatively low speed with no straight long enough to top out on, then your gear selection is going to be all about being in the right gear for turns.

But if you can top out, then it becomes all about moving your peak power to match your top speed. That's why the web site gearingcommander.com lists peak power and not redline for figuring out your top speed. Occasionally for some tracks you might have to gear tall so you can draft pass someone.
 

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Let me know when you are thinking of going to the motorplex. I know MNNTHBX sells cyrcra handguards that fit but I'm not sure if they are going to fit better on the Renthal bar they use vs others. I got the Moose ones to fit but not that great. The biggest issue I'm having is I can't pull the bars back much because all of the lines are too short for the controls. I put on a Motion Pro clutch cable which added some length but now I need to do something with the throttle and brake lines. The Acerbis handguards my buddy had worked great but not sure about spending that kind of $ on them as I believe they were something around $130.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
These riser footpegs have turned out to be pretty decent:





https://www.ebay.com/itm/382399116223

The way I have them configured is back 25mm and up about 5mm. The reason why I have them up 5mm is pretty important to reason they work well for me. When they are up, the extension bracket adds to their effective footing width, making them feel wider, while allowing your foot closer in towards the bike.

Those who chose to lower the footpegs using these would lose that extra footing surface, pushing your foot out further and making the resultant footing surface smaller.

This is essentially a "tall person" mod. the foot controls are left where they are which means you have more room to get your boot under the shifter. Meanwhile moving the pegs back 25mm moves your knees lower, which allows my legs to tuck into gas tank indentations better. Someone of my height (5'11") this is enough, but someone 6'3" it's not going to be enough and you'll need rear sets that move the pegs back about 2"or more.

These are well built with machined ridges inside that accept steel pins (shipped with it) designed to prevent the bracket from turning. These aren't going to rotate when you stand on them. I recommend putting it together with moderate tightness and testing the position for a few days. When you find something you like, take it apart and put it back together with plenty of blue loctite and torque.

The one downside, these did sit completely flat, so I put the lower tabs on a grinding wheel with a 90 degree table and took a little material off until they did. It wasn't bad though and it may not bother you. Over all decent for the price I paid of $50. Well what do you know, something good from China.
 

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Link said it only moved the lever forward 1.5" or so. Doesn't seem like it would be that big of a deal... but maybe I'm wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I notice that for most browsers, after the forum update that put the forum on a secure server, my pictures don't show up anymore. No more pics of my DIY linkage or the riser footpegs. Maybe I'll add them to this post as attachments.

But the riser footpegs I have on, as I have them configured move the pegs back 1", so 1.5" can't be much further. But yeah I would still consider it a "large foot" option. As long as your heel can still be on the peg when you upshift is should work fine and probably feel more solid than any linkage option.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Got my new decals from seventysevendecals.com on. They look good. Also tossed on a couple of my old racing tags that I still have around, which are starting to be so old that I wondered if the adhesive will still work. Yup. All set to crash this pretty bike all to ****, hahah.

New tires on the way soon, still deciding between Mitas and PMT.
 

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Link said it only moved the lever forward 1.5" or so. Doesn't seem like it would be that big of a deal... but maybe I'm wrong...
1.5” is a lot. I wear a size 11.5 shoe in some brands and that 1.5” would cause me to shift with the very tip of my toes. Now way I could use that and be comfortable. Zach setup is perfect for my use. Although a little expensive getting all the materials together. Worth it tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
At Webike, the Ohlins rear shock is $350 right now. Even with the shipping to US from Japan it's much cheaper than ordering in the states. I'm thinking about it.

I notice the USD price on things at Webike varies according to conversion rate. Last week this shock was $336 if you can believe it.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Neat way to mount a camera:

It's a little hammered up bracket made out of aluminum, using the spacer hex nut typically used for a reflector on the fender mount. Take the reflector off and there's a M5 tap there for mounting anything. The camera can mount forward or backward.

The camera is a Mobius 1080p, a really nice small front profile action cam with great quality. It comes with a mount that has a single threaded 1/4-20 thread typical of many camera mounts and can be fastened with any 1/4-20 bolt. Here I use a manual knob.
 

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You can buy a Möbius 90 which would mount closer. I like the Möbius Mini for 1080/60p. Get a USB power supply and put the camera into auto record mode. Power the converter and go. I have 4 on my KAYO and will probably do something similar on the Z. Belkin makes a 4 outlet converter, just solder wires to the power plug with an inline switch. No more running around trying to turn on cameras when you should be thinking about the track.
 
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