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Discussion Starter #1
So heres an update on whats been done, and following will be some questions that id love some help with:

TB 143 Big Bore Kit V2 Race head
34 mm takegawa throttle body
morin oil cooler
Gojin TB heavy duty clutch kit
Power Commander V
Dyno tuned by afr performance

So im having a few issues with it:
The main issue being the tune. The guy who tuned it on the dyno said it was not possible to tune the low end of the bike, only tune it at wide open throttle. Told me multiple times that with the stock o2 sensor it would revert the ecu back to stock mapping and not allow us to tune the low end. So now, we had several issues with idle and anything under 5k rpms. the bike wont take off until you get it way on up there in RPMs. and its also made it very unresponsive on the low end. once youre going down the road and staying on the high end the bike is stupid fast and no problems. but you slow down, bam its got problems again.

Now, i have the auto tuner sitting here waiting to be installed. in the morning we are getting the wide band o2 bung welded on the exhaust. so we will have that, we also have the o2 bypass from Kawasaki Brad. hopefully thatll fix the check engine light but who knows. Now, when it comes to the tuning aspect, IM SO FAR OUT OF MY COMFORT ZONE i dont quite know what im doing. Theres nothing out there i can find to help me with my next question.

Can you use the auto tuner, and get the low end throttle positions 0-30% throttle tuned, and save it on top of the map i have now that has the top end tuned? that way we can have a completely tuned map. and if so, can someone please get in contact with me to help with that process. Im way in over my head here so any and all help would be great.
Im in the dallas area if anyone is local, id love to have the help.
 

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I am not a tuner and am not the source for advise but you CAN download the old tune from your power commander and then you will need to tweak your "targets" and the autotune will try to dial it in for you. However if you don't know what you are doing go to a person who does.
 

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Hey Glenn,

First off, I appreciate your business and hopefully you had a chance to flip through the service manual and read the codes. Reading the codes will give some insight towards what's right and what's wrong. Fix the easy stuff first. If it's triggering the light it's obviously wrong. Good news is, with the O2 bypass you don't need to worry about the factory ECU and O2 correcting against your PCV tune.

On to PCV vs Bazzaz. Some people have more experience with one or the other. Tuners are tools, some tools are harder to operate than others. A hammer will not build a house by itself, it needs an operator. So, if your tuner isn't working it's rarely the module itself, it's usually the tune (also known as the tool between the keyboard and the monitor). It takes a lot to know what's going on there and I don't have a 100% lock on it myself, but I suspect your problem is the tune.

IM SO FAR OUT OF MY COMFORT ZONE
Welcome to the club. You got in over your head, no biggie. Much easier to deal with on a 2-3k bike than a 20-30k bike. If you're anything like me (and a lot of other people on here) it won't be the last time. I see three ways out of this for you.
#1 is my strong recommendation at this point and is also the fastest "path of least resistance". Most serious(ish) wrenchers end up going through all 3 steps anyways.
  • #1 Take it to a different tuner and get it on the dyno. I don't have any experience with AFR Performance and I'm not saying they are good or bad. Just keep this in mind, if they don't have a dyno, they are not a real tuner.
    • If a second tuner can't get a lock on it from here then you have a mechanical problem.
  • #2 Invest a LOT of personal hours in learning, and trial and error
  • #3 Buy and install an Autotune (this will still require a bunch of hours and learning what to do but is probably the final step anyways)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Glenn,

First off, I appreciate your business and hopefully you had a chance to flip through the service manual and read the codes. Reading the codes will give some insight towards what's right and what's wrong. Fix the easy stuff first. If it's triggering the light it's obviously wrong. Good news is, with the O2 bypass you don't need to worry about the factory ECU and O2 correcting against your PCV tune.

On to PCV vs Bazzaz. Some people have more experience with one or the other. Tuners are tools, some tools are harder to operate than others. A hammer will not build a house by itself, it needs an operator. So, if your tuner isn't working it's rarely the module itself, it's usually the tune (also known as the tool between the keyboard and the monitor). It takes a lot to know what's going on there and I don't have a 100% lock on it myself, but I suspect your problem is the tune.


Welcome to the club. You got in over your head, no biggie. Much easier to deal with on a 2-3k bike than a 20-30k bike. If you're anything like me (and a lot of other people on here) it won't be the last time. I see three ways out of this for you.
#1 is my strong recommendation at this point and is also the fastest "path of least resistance". Most serious(ish) wrenchers end up going through all 3 steps anyways.
  • #1 Take it to a different tuner and get it on the dyno. I don't have any experience with AFR Performance and I'm not saying they are good or bad. Just keep this in mind, if they don't have a dyno, they are not a real tuner.
    • If a second tuner can't get a lock on it from here then you have a mechanical problem.
  • #2 Invest a LOT of personal hours in learning, and trial and error
  • #3 Buy and install an Autotune (this will still require a bunch of hours and learning what to do but is probably the final step anyways)
Thanks for the words of advice, my friend!
I am taking it to a tuner in Wednesday to see if he can get me a full tune across the map. I most likely won’t be going back to the previous tuner as he charged me 350, for only a wide open tune. So as of now you literally have to REV UP to even take off.

As far as the check engine light is concerned, I couldn’t seem to find anything on the engine codes or how to read them. A bunch of people say “ride it it’ll go off”, but 100+ miles later, it’s still on Maybe he’ll know what to do about it, hopefully that it. But we shall see.
 

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Heres the how-to on engine codes and its not the mileage that clears the CEL, its the 4 ride cycles with key/off key/on in between

Video /
.
CEL SELF DIAG'.JPG CEL ERACING.jpg
 

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Thanks for the words of advice, my friend!
I am taking it to a tuner in Wednesday to see if he can get me a full tune across the map. I most likely won’t be going back to the previous tuner as he charged me 350, for only a wide open tune. So as of now you literally have to REV UP to even take off.

As far as the check engine light is concerned, I couldn’t seem to find anything on the engine codes or how to read them. A bunch of people say “ride it it’ll go off”, but 100+ miles later, it’s still on Maybe he’ll know what to do about it, hopefully that it. But we shall see.
Please read the codes first to see if something that you hadn't considered is wrong. Could be as simple as an unplugged sensor or a pinched wire.

Did you receive the email I sent stating you should read section 3-36 of the service manual? Also, same picture that Kaw'ee posted was attached to that email which states how to clear the codes.

Most shops tune at WOT unless told otherwise. Make sure you explain to him that you need a 0-100% throttle daily driver base tune.
 
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