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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I’m new to the forum but needed to ask a question. I just bought a 2017 Z125 Pro and I love it. I bought from a guy with only 200 miles and he put a lot of add ons on it. It has a big bore kit, stroker, air cleaner, basically the works! After I got it home I felt like I noticed a tick at a low idle. It runs freakin awesome but the tick worries me. I’m used to riding bigger bikes like 600cc or more so I’m not sure if this is just normal or what. Can anyone chime in?? Oh and I have a couple videos too if you wanna hear.
 

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Check your valve clearance! It should be .003" inlet and exhaust.
I had the same problem the valves they were going out of spec quickly so I sent TB a email and they said that it takes at least 3 valve adjustments before the valves will stay in spec and after that they will stay in spec longer.
Before this I was running the stock z125 valve settings and now it seems ok..
 

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FYI, these probably use the same thread pitch as the TTR125, this is most convenient because proper clearance is screw the adjuster down until it contacts the valve (not crank it tight) and back off 1/4 turn. Makes life much easier this way.

If it doesn't use the same threading, then take the thread pitch of the adjuster (how many millimeter for 1 revolution) and compute how many revolutions are needed to make the required spacing. But I'm guessing that the Z will be a .5mm pitch which will then give you .12mm per quarter turn (which is roughly spec. for a TTR125)

You can measure the pitch by holding the screw against a ruler, count the number of threads per millimeter, again guessing you will see 3 threads (two full rotations) with one on each line of the ruler, and one in the middle. That would be standard for fine pitch 4mm bolts at 0.5mm pitch. I doubt they used a 3mm because I don't think it would suffer the forces very well. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/measuring/tpiandpitch.aspx

Looking back at the spec., the Z requires a very tight intake, this will probably then be 1/8 turn of the adjuster and slightly less than 1/4 turn for exhaust (but probably close enough at 1/4 turn). Intake seems very tight to me, not much room to expand when hot and I'll probably adjust a little farther when it's time for the first service on mine (if I need to adjust). Feel free to follow up with the feeler gauges to check the math, but once proven to work, the rotation method will be just as good.

One thing I've learned the hard way... On the TTR125, if you are going to rev. beyond about 8000rpm, you better put loctite on those adjuster locking nuts! I've had them vibrate loose a couple of times now and luckily I've always found the nut, and no damage has been done. I've tried crush washers to lock it in place as well, the only thing that works is lots of loctite which means everything must be clean and oil free. Also means it is a pain to adjust the next time around! (get the crack torch ready)

I also recommend buying the special wrench, holding the adjuster in place while trying to crank down on the nut is difficult. The cheap two piece adjuster wrench things can help a lot. From memory there are 3 different types, two sizes of square drive, and one slotted (flat screw driver style). And possibly two different size nuts (8mm and 10mm???). Pretty sure we are going to be the 8mm, but somebody correct me if that is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Will the spacing always be .003? I only ask because the guy i bought it from put on a complete 178cc big bore kit and 55mm stroker kit on it from steady garage. I called my local power sports shop and they said they could space it for me but don’t do a lot with Kawasaki so asked that I bring in the spacing details when i bring the bike in. Asked about the specific spacing and tool but said they could do it no problem otherwise. Thoughts here?
 

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Thoughts here?
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Just that we didnt get to here the ticking . a ticking sound can mean a lot of different things to a lot of people ?
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If your video is on YouTube / whats your channel called , i'll post up the video for you you'd like. and we all could benefit from hearing it now and knowing it was the valve adjustment that fix it if most of us still think thats what it is after hearing it
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or just type it in with a * space or something so it dosent get picked up like a link does
 

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I Heard it in the second video ! . but i'm not one of the engine experts here ... I'd let them chime in before spending a couple of days at a shop , and the expense ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yep! Obvious more ether after riding it or if it idles down really low. Like when I came to a stop at a light and pulled the clutch in that’s when I caught it first so I listened in more and noticed it most around idle for sure. Or if I’m cruising and hold the throttle at a steady spot it’s fine when I twist on it she gets up and moves but makes a bit of a different sound. Not bad per say but enough I can hear the motor change when gassing it.
 

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Will the spacing always be .003? I only ask because the guy i bought it from put on a complete 178cc big bore kit and 55mm stroker kit on it from steady garage. I called my local power sports shop and they said they could space it for me but don’t do a lot with Kawasaki so asked that I bring in the spacing details when i bring the bike in. Asked about the specific spacing and tool but said they could do it no problem otherwise. Thoughts here?
Mate just email TB TBparts | Quality Mini Bike Parts with your questions..:grin2:
Plus its a easy job to do yourself..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
TB Phone #?

Check your valve clearance! It should be .003" inlet and exhaust.
I had the same problem the valves they were going out of spec quickly so I sent TB a email and they said that it takes at least 3 valve adjustments before the valves will stay in spec and after that they will stay in spec longer.
Before this I was running the stock z125 valve settings and now it seems ok..
Jeff - what email address is that? I cant find an email address on their website. Thanks for the help!
 
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