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Discussion Starter #1
So the bike won’t start but it’s not a engine issue bike runs fine when rolling start and no issues with it but won’t start with the button new to bikes replaced the starter same noise no crank what should I do next can post videos and pictures later
 

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Make sure the bike is in neutral. Double check your kill switch isn't on.

What noise does it make? A click like it's trying to start but doesn't have enough juice? Battery might be dead (or toast). Boost it with your car and if that solves it, time for a new battery (terminal connections are known to come loose too).

If it doesn't even click might be the starter solenoid but that is extremely rare on these.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just starter spinning no engine noise at all
when I roll start it it makes a clicking noise but gears go in no problem when ridding. I’ll check voltage what’s regular for these bikes I can check later but for further help ..?
 

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A sound video would really help us if you can and before investigating the below issue

But the most typical problem for what you describe is the limiter gear and/or starter clutch (clicking noise) if you replaced the starter and still have same noise
Check STARTER NOISE #2 VIDEO (whine / fast free spin)
You need a puller to get the rotor off also if that's the issue
Here's a look inside

STATOR.jpg STARTER.jpg 30703710_429693277475157_4770049129147531264_n.jpg colttt.jpg TB Flywheel Puller.jpg
 

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Just starter spinning no engine noise at all
when I roll start it it makes a clicking noise but gears go in no problem when ridding. I’ll check voltage what’s regular for these bikes I can check later but for further help ..?
I think Kaw'ee got it. Starter spinning but not turning the engine? Starter gear or sprag.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Make sure the bike is in neutral. Double check your kill switch isn't on.

What noise does it make? A click like it's trying to start but doesn't have enough juice? Battery might be dead (or toast). Boost it with your car and if that solves it, time for a new battery (terminal connections are known to come loose too).

If it doesn't even click might be the starter solenoid but that is extremely rare on these.
 

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But the most typical problem for what you describe is the limiter gear and/or starter clutch (clicking noise) if you replaced the starter and still have same noise
You need a puller to get the rotor off also if that's the issue
Here's a look inside

View attachment 25786 View attachment 25787 View attachment 25788 View attachment 25790 View attachment 25791

Ya, second starter same thing so need to take off side cover and look.

Making video right now for this very common issue
should be up right here shortly

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh Mann okay I’ll have to do that some time next week it’s not my biggest project but definitely need to figure it out or take it to a shop. But why does it act normal when roll start .??
 

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Starter clutch when working is only engaged while starting
 

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KawasakiBrad works at Dealership and can probably give a pretty close estimate
 

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KawasakiBrad works at Dealership and can probably give a pretty close estimate
Actually........ I'm on COVIDcation. Laid off and I got one of those letters in the mail last month that said (in generic terms): it's been fun, here's some severance, your position no longer exists.
I'm not happy about that but I'm not crying either.

With that being said, hypothetically putting myself back in the service writer chair, I'd say something like:
"It's going to depend on how extensively all this has been mucked with.
IF this was a stock starter that failed and was replaced with a genuine Kawasaki/name brand/high quality starter and the harness hasn't been cut, there are no stripped bolts, everything is pretty straightforward we're looking at 1h tops.
If there are surprises in there, if there is something else wrong, if there are stripped bolts and missing hardware, if the harness has been cut, if we're trying to make a chinesium starter function like a real starter, etc, etc. It's just plus plus plus from there."
Shop rates vary but $130/h is pretty standard here in Alberta Canada.

My 2c:
Take it to a local Kawi dealership that has a good reputation. Tell them what is inoperable. Leave it with them for a few days if they want. If you show up demanding immediate service or an estimate while you wait the price goes up. Trust your service adviser. They have probably been doing this for a really long time and tend to know their $#!t. Information, symptoms, noises, are all great. Maybe even a guess or two of what you think it might be. Please don't tell them "I read on a forum" or "I'm sure it's" or "it must be". By all means information is great, but information and advice are different things. If they wanted your advice they would be bringing their bike to you, not the other way around.

For everyone who skipped through my long winded BS:
I'd estimate 1h if it's cut and dried like a sticky sprag (that's my guess btw)
Sky is the limit if it's junk parts, stripped bolts, cut wires, etc.
 
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