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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently installed the Pro Circuit pipe on my Z. After a few hundred miles the mounting tab on the bottom of the frame cracked off from vibration. It's one of the tabs that the stock exhaust mounted to. It seems that this tab that broke was supporting most of the weight of the exhaust. So now that I think about it, it never really stood a chance. Anyone run this pipe and have a similar issue?
 

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I recently installed the Pro Circuit pipe on my Z. After a few hundred miles the mounting tab on the bottom of the frame cracked off from vibration. It's one of the tabs that the stock exhaust mounted to. It seems that this tab that broke was supporting most of the weight of the exhaust. So now that I think about it, it never really stood a chance. Anyone run this pipe and have a similar issue?

I have the same pipe but have had zero issues, if I understand correctly it was the OE tab that broke, not the one on the pipe? Unsure how this can be seen as an issue with the pipe. Was it installed with correct alignment? The PC pipe is also considerably lighter than the OE one so should, if anything, put less stress on the mounting hardware.


Hopefully you can get it sorted
 

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Just curious ...
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Only pipe i see on there site is the T-6 STAINLESS SYSTEM W/TI CANISTER/CARBON END-CAP, Z125 PRO '17
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How does the Tab hole on the header that's parallel to the bottom of the pipe get UP to the Tab that is above the bottom level of the cross-tube to the stock muffler tab point ?. or is the pic deceiving
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Any got mounting point pic's
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Would love to see a pic of where it cracked or broke off.
Evaluating cracked welds, cracked at the heat affected zone, cracks from stress risers, etc' was a lot of my past job responsibility's
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the same pipe but have had zero issues, if I understand correctly it was the OE tab that broke, not the one on the pipe? Unsure how this can be seen as an issue with the pipe. Was it installed with correct alignment? The PC pipe is also considerably lighter than the OE one so should, if anything, put less stress on the mounting hardware.


Hopefully you can get it sorted

The OE exhaust uses two mounting tabs helping to distribute the weight. On the PC pipe, it just uses the one tab along with studs/nuts holding the header to the exhaust port. Here is a picture of the broken tab on the frame.
 

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the mounting tab on the bottom of the frame cracked off from vibration.
Oh. sounded like at the weld .
The tab itself torn has got to be to a bad fit (both tabs flush to each other)when bolted together. Or a Stress Riser (crack or deep gouge) in the edge of the material.. both tabs designs are rigid as hel' so neither of them are going to give at all. so when tightened theres a lot of stress on one or the other thats beyond the intended designed strength of the tabs. so more fault would fall on the pipe tab being out of location rather than the frame. and still not understanding how that tab gets up to the frame tab could very well be part of the stress in question ?
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If your welding the tab back on use the pipe bolted up tight at all 3 places to tack it up , even if its crooked to the frame thats the angle it needs to be for the tab on that pipe. Welding really is a wicked process for things pulling out of location , so check after welding for flush condition .
Best way to check that fit at that tab is to only bolt it at that tab leaving the head and can points un-bolted and see if both head and can points line up easily.

Maybe even weld a washer on the frame tab after re-welding tab ( grinding weld flush) for extra strength.
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The OE exhaust uses two mounting tabs helping to distribute the weight. On the PC pipe, it just uses the one tab along with studs/nuts holding the header to the exhaust port. Here is a picture of the broken tab on the frame.
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Are you saying theres no mounting point on/for the Can ?
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That would explain everything !
 

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Are you saying theres no mounting point on/for the Can ?
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That would explain everything !
This exhaust has a separate hanger for the muffler. I believe he's referring to the asymmetrical loading of using half of a set of two mounting points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This exhaust has a separate hanger for the muffler. I believe he's referring to the asymmetrical loading of using half of a set of two mounting points.


Correct. And there is no indication of the tab bending before it broke. There are only two points where that whole exhaust system mounts to the bike itself. 1. The header at the exhaust port. 2. the mid-pipe area at the broken frame tab being discussed.

I am going to have the tab welded back on. Then reinforced to make it twice as thick. For additional support I'm going to try using a cable clamp to support the muffler near the rear footpeg mount area of the frame.
 

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There are only two points where that whole exhaust system mounts to the bike itself. 1. The header at the exhaust port. 2. the mid-pipe area at the broken frame tab being discussed.
Oh my mistake, I thought there was a footpeg support as well making 3 support points.
 

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so more fault would fall on the pipe tab being out of location rather than the frame. .
and still not understanding how that tab gets up to the frame tab could very well be part of the stress in question ?
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Sorry bad advice... pipe tab is fine, but until i could see how its mounted I didn't get it .
(I assumed the hanger bracket went the the foot pegs, It goes to the can, Right?)
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Looks like the frame tab is broken off and still attached to this pipe as well. (pic)

And now i get "that tab never had a chance". especially after seeing it has only 2 mounting points
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I know your on track Scott, but Just wanted to reply mostly for Phil......
(and anyone that has this pipe already)
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Phil... your tab will probably break off as well, It's a MUST to pic up both tabs with the stock cross tube like Greg_e suggested here at a minimum.
And a can support of some kind would be a good idea for extra support as well.
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I think using both tabs is a significant upgrade. Being able to manage the moment created by the muffler during cornering should result in a push force in one eyelet and a pull in the other one, no more twisting. That should go a long way for increasing durability. A separate muffler support would do even better however. This is disappointing as this was my top choice for exhaust.
 

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My Zoom Loop tab cracked in the same place... Except it was the tab on the exhaust and not the frame. Seems like this thumper causes all kinds of idiosyncrasies...





 

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Cracking the tab on the muffler is an easier repair, I think I could even do that one (and my welding is primitive at best). Ideally, one would weld a tube between those to engine tabs, but a tight fit from a spacer and a long bolt would do mostly the same thing. 2 nuts welded to the ends of tubing would provide something similar to the long bolt, but might be easier to work with. But the long bolt and tubing is something most anyone can do at home with a hacksaw and some threaded rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here is the bracket on mine, do you not have this one as well?


From what I could see in that earlier pic it looks like that bracket has been used in the wrong spot.

Is your muffler mount fastened to the bike somehow? Or is it just fastened to the aluminum bracket that goes down to the frame tab?
 
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