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Does anyone know what size the oil drain plug is? Or which ones for other bikes are compatible? Bonus to find one predrilled for safety wire. I can't seem to find this info by Google search.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you! I apparently suck at the interwebs, LOL.2017 Z125 Pro - Kawasaki Part Number
92066-0753 PLUG,OIL DRAIN,12X15 $3.62
KLX110L - Kawasaki Part Number
92066-0768 PLUG,OIL DRAIN,12X15 $3.62
Quick search on the interwebs:
CHP BLACK Billet aluminum Magnetic Drain Plug and sealing washer.
CHP Motorsports Classic Honda, Suzuki DRZ110, Kawasaki KLX-110 performance parts page including Kitaco, Takegawa, G-Craft and Classic Honda USA Billet aluminum pieces. 9.95 drilled and magnetic (red, blue or black)
I just got one too. I hope it fits!
Mine fit with no problem. Definitely have to use the washer it comes with.I just got one too. I hope it fits!
Fox Fader,Mine fit with no problem. Definitely have to use the washer it comes with.
You'll just have to replace the washer after several drains.Fox Fader,
That looks like a great solution, but when you say you have to use the washer it comes with, does that mean that when the washer needs to be replaced you will have to order a new bolt and washer assembly or will you just need to find a source for a replacement washer?
Waaaay overthought.RE: Crush Washers
I've always been a little conflicted on this topic, let's use spark plugs as a more extreme example.
Many (most?) spark plugs come with a type of crush fitting that allows a user to turn a half or eighth turn after finger tight to properly seat the plug. This accomplishes two things. 1.) Under tooled DIYers can install their own plugs 2.) Increases thread friction in a predictable way. This isn't to say you can't remove said plug to check it's condition or gap, but you would actually need a proper torque wrench the second time around.
If you did re-install a pre-crushed spark plug and followed the instructions on the box it would certainly be over torqued and might get you in trouble. This is because your end point for finger tight is now a solid face instead of a compressible element.
This is to say, when you re-use your crush washer, just treat it as a spacer, it will only compress once.
Personally I don't like crush washers on drain plugs because I know they are good to re-use with a bit of common sense (or arguably not necessary in the first place) but being the goodie-two-shoes that I am I install a fresh one each time... because the manual says so!
Thoughts?
Cheers for all the suggestions, I picked up the Outlaw one. The removable magnet design is really clever but backing the magnet out seems like more work than just grabbing the filings with the rag that's invariably already in my hand. =P Plus I'm cheap.
For a drain plug? You bet!Waaaay overthought.
Waaaay overthought.
I like this idea.I replace drain plug washer every time I drain oil on every vehicle I own. Go on amazon. You can buy copper washers in various sizes. I spent like 7 bucks once and now I have like 30 of different sizes hanging on a nail in a wall in my garage. I just grab one off the nail every time I remove the drain plug. This is one of those things where it is so dirt cheap... and even though you could reuse one... why would you? They cost like 12 cents a piece not the hill to die on IMO.
The OEM NGK sparkplug on the Z125, like most (all?) sparkplugs, comes with a crush washer from the factory.Unless the plug came with a washer on it I wouldn't add one as that would change the location of the spark in the chamber ever so slightly. I was referencing the NGK style built in crush feature. Haven't pulled the Z's plug yet so my apologies for being clueless.