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Need some advice here. Been dealing with the ‘check engine’ light on since I installed a Graves exhaust with a Power Commander and Autotune. As has been noted on the forum before, the PC and Autotune are NOT shipped with an O2 optimizer plug anymore, so I left the old O2 sensor connector open. As I would expect, this sets off the ‘check engine’ light, and it’s been on awhile.

Had the bike dyno tuned and all went well. The guy who did it commented that the engine light would go off only if I had an optimizer in the circuit, and recommended I get one on eBay. Found one for the bike from Europe and finally got and installed it. Ran fine, but the light never cleared after numerous rides. I brought the bike in for a state inspection and had the code read - 67 (P0030) OX SENSOR MALFUNCTION OPEN OR SHORT. But after reading and CLEARING the code, the light immediately tripped again, with the optimizer in place. Of course the dealer won’t help - it’s not even close to stock.

So I’m wondering if the optimizer has the wrong resistors for this bike. Unfortunately, the tech says the code is OPEN or SHORT - you can’t tell which is the case.

With an ohm meter and by reading the resistor codes, they are 330 ohms for the heater, and 47K ohms for the sensor. I have no reference for the sensor resistance, but the heater value may be off. The service manual says the stock O2 sensor should have a resistance value of between 13.0 and 18.5 ohms. If the ECU is seeing 330 ohms, all I can think of is that since this is way too high, it may interpret this value as an “open” and continually trip the light. I could try an 18 ohm resistor here, but for a 12 volt supply that is 8 watts of power dissipation - not trivial and requires a 10 watt rated power resistor. And that would be expected as it’s a HEATER element in the sensor. But from photos I’ve seen of old optimizers, the resistor is nowhere near the size of a power resistor of this wattage.

So to get to the point - does anyone have experience in this area? And if you have an optimizer that works with a PC and Autotune, can you check the resistance with a meter and let me know the value?

I would appreciate any help in solving this as it’s not just annoying. It would be nice if the light was ever tripped for another reason I would know it...

JW
 

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I had the same issue as soon as i unplugged the o2 sensor when i put my autone and pcv. I ended up ordering the o2 eliminator/optimizer plug from greece for around 20 dollars. I then rode about 180km before the light finally went off on its own. It was frustrating definitely and not impressed with the response from dynojet about them not providing this anymore. I never bothered to measure the resistance, clear the code, or even read it. It did go away on its own

Would the pcv and ecu not conflict with each other due to the lack of sensor? Wouldnt that make the dyno job pointless?
 

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Not sure if this helps ?
 

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Was thinking i saved and made something about those and just found it

The values are a post from another site so I can't verify if there correct ?
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Not sure if you need the other pic so just chuckin it on here
 

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Sorry guys for my sporadic replys and posts but the wife broke knee 3 weeks ago and now last sunday broke her hip so i jump on here the few minutes i have available to post when i only have a couple of minutes to even really understand the questions :confused:
 

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Dude, take care of her first, no need to apologize.

I thought that to make an o2 bypass device, you needed a small micro controller or 555 timer to output a pulse that mirrors the rich/lean trend that all narrow band o2 sensors gives. Since this is a standard o2, I'd look to the car market to find something and make an adapter cable if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Was thinking i saved and made something about those and just found it

The values are a post from another site so I can't verify if there correct ?
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Not sure if you need the other pic so just chuckin it on here
Just what I was looking for - some kind of discrepancy from what I currently have that doesn’t work. Went to the lab at work over lunch time and changed my 330 ohm resistor to 220 as in your photo. Weather looks perfect for this weekend so I’ll go out and see if it clears. I’ll report on Sunday evening. Thanks!

JW
 

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Take care of your wife and yourself, we thank you for all your input and help but we also understand when real life comes about.

You are a great member of this community and we appreciate it :)
 

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I'm having a hard time sourcing a bulk quantity of connectors for this to make my own. If anyone could point me in the right direction I'll gladly build and ship you one (free) when they come in.
Hey Brad, hope the new job worked out

I googled a few sites down here in case you get different type search sites up there and these two seemed like the best bet. I didn't see anything right off but defiantly seemed like a call to them could hook you up maybe .
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https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=54
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Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories
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Discussion Starter #12
Was thinking i saved and made something about those and just found it

The values are a post from another site so I can't verify if there correct ?
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Not sure if you need the other pic so just chuckin it on here
Put in the 220 ohm resistor and rode 5 times this weekend for a total of 100 miles at plenty of time over 25mph, and with the 30 sec idle period, etc. Light still on. I’ll keep trying, as I have no other ideas. Maybe I haven’t met the ECU criteria for it to self-clear...

JW
 

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Put in the 220 ohm resistor and rode 5 times this weekend for a total of 100 miles at plenty of time over 25mph, and with the 30 sec idle period, etc. Light still on. I’ll keep trying, as I have no other ideas. Maybe I haven’t met the ECU criteria for it to self-clear...

JW
Need to exceed 25mph for 15 consecutive minutes, 3 separate times (key cycle between each time).

Your dealer will be able to scan it and clear it. Usually a half hour minimum charge or something like that.
 

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Hey Brad, hope the new job worked out

I googled a few sites down here in case you get different type search sites up there and these two seemed like the best bet. I didn't see anything right off but defiantly seemed like a call to them could hook you up maybe .
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https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=54
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Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories
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Hey Kaw'ee
I especially like the second one. Haven't seen that website before and I'm sure it will come in handy. Much appreciated. :smile2:.
Will update with success (or failure, whichever comes first).
 

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Was thinking i saved and made something about those and just found it

The values are a post from another site so I can't verify if there correct ?
.
Not sure if you need the other pic so just chuckin it on here
checking my bike i do have the HEATER & OXYGEN SENSOR labeled WRONG / BACKWARDS ... / FIXED new pic #1

Went back to site where i got it (fb) and asking for the ohms values again, so far one reply came back with same GREEN @ 46.6 & YELLOW @ 220

I'll post back with more reply's if any ...

But would think using the manual values would be better ? Pic #2

CEL erasing per manual / pic #3
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Ordered a bulk pack from China today of those plugs. Hopefully the right ones this time (last 2 tries were ever so slightly different). Thanks Kaw'ee. Even though the one I found on the site you linked was kind of spendy $$ it did finally give me the part number I needed (I think) to order the rest. Yours will be in the mail shortly after they come in. :)
 

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With the Bazzaz, if you run the Z-afm with their wideband O2 plugged into the header you have to leave the stock O2 connected (with their adapter) and tuck it under the bodywork. No way around it unless you want to look at that light all the time.
 

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With the Bazzaz, if you run the Z-afm with their wideband O2 plugged into the header you have to leave the stock O2 connected (with their adapter) and tuck it under the bodywork. No way around it unless you want to look at that light all the time.

You can plug in @Kawasaki Brad 's adapter and remove the stock O2 from the system. You are fooling the stock ECU so there will be no DTC light. PCV/Bazzaz doesn't care either way.
 

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You can plug in @Kawasaki Brad 's adapter and remove the stock O2 from the system. You are fooling the stock ECU so there will be no DTC light. PCV/Bazzaz doesn't care either way.
Whaaaa? Bazzaz tech told me they couldn't work around it with the Z125 or the ZX10R. I've already got mine set so I'm not screwing with it anymore.
 

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Whaaaa? Bazzaz tech told me they couldn't work around it with the Z125 or the ZX10R. I've already got mine set so I'm not screwing with it anymore.
Couldn't or wouldn't? I have a lot of satisfied customers without a single issue. I assume you're running a 5th gen ZX10R (north American 1-4 don't have O2's) or a Euro spec?

I have the O2 prototype bypass for the Gen 5 ZX10 made up, just don't have a ton of testing on it yet so it's not up on the KB site until I'm sure. Should be ready for Spring so if you want one please send me a PM and I'll let you know when they're available.
 
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