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Hello, I installed the HP coil and plug wire the other day and it really woke the bike up. I am experiencing my tach jumping when revving the bike over 6k in each gear. I don't know what could be causing this, but I think it has something to do with electrical resistance of the new coil. I have everything grounded well. Does anyone have any suggestions to remedy this? Thanks.
 

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I bought it at Steady Garage. It's a performance upgrade part. The tachometer on these bikes gets its signal from the coil somehow and since I replaced the factory 1 with this upgraded part, my tach has been acting funny. There was another member on here that has installed the same part on his bike, so I was hoping he'd chime in with some advice. The new coil supplies more energy to the spark plug, thus creating a much better spark, thus creating better performance out of the motor. I have the Aracer Mini5 ECU, so I know what RPM I'm in, but I like my analog tach a lot.
 

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Hmm, I'll have to watch this one because I was thinking of getting this combo for a "cheap" power upgrade. I think it may also have a shorter delay between command to fire, and spark generation which in practice would give you a slight bit of timing advance. And we know emissions has set the timing back a bit from ideal power.
 

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I bought it at Steady Garage. It's a performance upgrade part. The tachometer on these bikes gets its signal from the coil somehow and since I replaced the factory 1 with this upgraded part, my tach has been acting funny. There was another member on here that has installed the same part on his bike, so I was hoping he'd chime in with some advice. The new coil supplies more energy to the spark plug, thus creating a much better spark, thus creating better performance out of the motor. I have the Aracer Mini5 ECU, so I know what RPM I'm in, but I like my analog tach a lot.
That might be me. I posted before the end of the year that I got one to help with cold starts. Definitely helped. I’m just now catching up on stuff after the winter and my rebuild is almost done.

What plug are you running? Nology recommends you use a NON-RESISTOR plug, but several places (including Steady Garage) said NO, use a resistor plug. The extra RFI (radio frequency interference) can wreck havoc on the electronic fuel injector. As such, I wouldn’t be surprised if another side effect might be what you are seeing. I am successfully using an NGK CR6HIX iridium plug. Whatever you are using, make sure it has the “R” in it. It stands for “resistor” in case that isn’t too obvious.

What about your coil mounting and cable routing? The cable as comes is too long. I cut out about 7 inches and used an NGK splicer. Keep the wire away from metal and especially other wires. See my photo.

Make sure the ground connection is good. Use sandpaper on both ends to make sure.

Let us know if any of this helps your issue...

JW
 

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Reading a little, seems the aracer adjustable coil might throw a hotter spark. It has ten adjustment settings, but no real definition of exactly what those settings do, they claim some timing changes but I don't think you can get very much advance. Maybe if the flame front spreads faster the effect would be similar to more advance.

Everyone with aracer or nology say the motor starts better, especially cold, for some that would be enough reason to buy.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I'm running the same plug as you JW. I have everything grounded good, took a red scotch brite to all the grounding surfaces. I didn't cut the plug wire, which is obnoxiously too long, but I have it routed good. Honestly, it may be my ARacer Mini-5 acting up, but it's never gave me any trouble and it reads RPM's just fine. I updated the software for it at the same time. The bike really runs good now though, and I can live with the wonky tach as long as I have the ARacer RPM readout. Checked the fuses and swapped in a fresh Yuasa AGM battery today too. She runs like a top I tell ya!! Just got to install my lightened primary gear and swap the stock gearing for a 15t front and a 31t rear and she'll be all set.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I'm running the same plug as you JW. I have everything grounded good, took a red scotch brite to all the grounding surfaces. I didn't cut the plug wire, which is obnoxiously too long, but I have it routed good.
We tried! Sorry that didn’t help you.

Interesting story on this coil/wire. So I just completed my winter rebuild, which I’ll write up separately as this was only a small piece of what I upgraded. Since I did a total engine rebuild including the crankshaft and an oil cooler, the engine was to be started today without oil flowing well thru all the channels. What I do for a total rebuild like this is to cycle the crank manually several times first, of course making sure nothing is hung up. Then I pull the plug wire from the plug and cycle the engine over a few times for about 5 seconds each time to get oil flowing. Only after that do I reconnect the plug wire and actually fire up the engine. And since I added an oil cooler, I stopped the engine after 10 seconds to add another 150cc of additional oil. But what is of interest here is what happened during the part where I hit the starter with the plug wire disconnected. I knew to keep the end away from the head, so I pointed it down about 1.5 inches away - always enough previously. Not this time! With the new coil, I heard sharp crackling noises when I hit the starter and was pretty surprised to see on my driveway in bright sunlight a veritable lightning bolt jumping from the end of the plug wire to the cylinder head! Dang impressive for that gap. This coil really packs an energetic punch. Don’t ever touch the coil or the wire when the engine is running!

Good thing, as I’m now running a 12.2 to 1 compression ratio, and the starter feels that load from a cold start. This is why I went to this coil. More to come later...

JW
 

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I wonder if I can get away with this coil in a stock class, the rules do not say anything about the coil, just no internal mods. then again, the chances of ever getting the closer to home racing going again are pretty slim, maybe I just shouldn't care about keeping it stock. If I'm lucky, i'll be able to get it on the track this summer for practice, might have to take it to New Hampshire with a Penguin Racing Schools track day, even though they are expensive.
 
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