Kawasaki Z125 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A Thread (place) for new riders to ask very simple questions
.
Most beginner riders that are new to motorcycles have simple questions that seem to embarrassing to ask on a forum where everyone's talking about advanced motor and modification issues
.
So feel free to ask anything here ... From wheres the spark plug to how do I put air in the tires is OK here .
.
Or of course anywhere on the forum is fine
.
And my personal advice to all newbie's is to watch this video , and don't be scared off by Trolls no matter what forums you join . .
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
Okay... I'll start.


With no (readily available) rear stand, what's the best way to lube and adjust the chain? On my wife's Magna, I have a calibrated 2x4 that I use under the right swing arm to pull the rear tire off the ground.


Right now, I am doing the spray, push the bike a few feet, repeat. Is there a better way on the Z?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
I have a set of PitBull front/rear stands, but they are currently in use as I reassemble another bike after a low side. Once I get spools for my Z, I can make use of my PitBull rear stand... I was more or less asking for those too cheap to buy (another) rear stand.


What is a 'wheel roller'?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Is it just cheaper/easier/better to have someone locally adjust the chain for you and if so, who? Just the local dealer? I haven't done it myself yet but know I'm probably past the point of needing to adjust and lube the chain. A friend said just use WD40 and he has had a few bikes in the past. Trust or don't trust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
982 Posts
https://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-cleaning-stand-98800.html need to use a front wheel chock of some kind to keep it from tipping over, I don't think it would be a good idea to use this on the side stand (try at own risk).

I'll be putting a set of the cheap swingarm adjuster spools on my Z soon, video will happen when I do it as I'm trying to document all of my mods. The cheap ones I bought seem to be reasonable, at least until I crash it and then they will probably snap right off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
Lubing and adjusting the chain isn't difficult. Like with all things, its about being prepared with the correct tools.


Personally, it's too much screwing around dealing with the dealer. Doing it myself takes 10 minutes and saves me $35.


Please don't just NOT adjust your chain... BAD things can happen...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay... I'll start.


With no (readily available) rear stand, what's the best way to lube and adjust the chain? On my wife's Magna, I have a calibrated 2x4 that I use under the right swing arm to pull the rear tire off the ground.


Right now, I am doing the spray, push the bike a few feet, repeat. Is there a better way on the Z?
.
I use a 2x6" for a little more front to back stable while cleaning and lubing the chain .
Or for just lube out on a long ride you can just have somebody pull the bike over while its on the side stand. or tie-down/rope to a tree/fence
.
I adjust my chain with it on the side stand and leave a slight tension on the axle bolt so the adjusters can still move the axle . Important to make sure it's in NEUTRAL when doing it this way to see the actual chain slack.
.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is it just cheaper/easier/better to have someone locally adjust the chain for you and if so, who? Just the local dealer? I haven't done it myself yet but know I'm probably past the point of needing to adjust and lube the chain. A friend said just use WD40 and he has had a few bikes in the past. Trust or don't trust?
the stock chain needs a lot of adjusting attention when its new being a cheap chain, as well as a lot of lubing due to NOT being a sealed chain .
.
If you dont have good capabilities to do it (time, tools,or comfort of knowledge) , then yes get it to someone that can do it . Or have them install a quality sealed chain (like O-ring) due to they do not need to be lubed or adjusted as often . you can even buy chains that are pre-streched so the adjustment is even fewer and in between. The cost of the O-chain vs paying someone to do it for you will pay off.
.
And NO' on the WD40 it is not a sticky lubricant and will fly off in the first couple of miles .

But check out this video , you should have the tools in your tool bag under the seat ! and this thread to help you get doing it yourself ;)


http://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...e-tech-maintenance-diy-videos.html#post111418
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I've been using a rear swingarm stand to lube and service my chain. Stock chain stretches like crazy so I have to adjust once a week. I clean the chain with kerosene and a toothbrush then I use WD-40 white lithium grease. Doesn't fling if you let it dry a bit. I love a clean chain so as long as you clean it good you can use chain wax, chain lube, and many other commonly found lubes. I love white lithium myself but everyone has thier own preferences.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
I've been using a rear swingarm stand to lube and service my chain. Stock chain stretches like crazy so I have to adjust once a week. I clean the chain with kerosene and a toothbrush then I use WD-40 white lithium grease. Doesn't fling if you let it dry a bit. I love a clean chain so as long as you clean it good you can use chain wax, chain lube, and many other commonly found lubes. I love white lithium myself but everyone has thier own preferences.

Once a week seems like a lot. Are you putting on like 500+ miles each week? Not that it would have changed my mind in getting one of these but the subject of chain adjustment seems excessive and a PITA so I may just go with a closed chain setup like Kaw'ee mentioned at some point. Once a month seems like it would be more in-line but I guess there are a lot of factors that come into play per each individual and use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Okay... I'll start.


With no (readily available) rear stand, what's the best way to lube and adjust the chain? On my wife's Magna, I have a calibrated 2x4 that I use under the right swing arm to pull the rear tire off the ground.


Right now, I am doing the spray, push the bike a few feet, repeat. Is there a better way on the Z?


Lubing and adjusting the chain isn't difficult. Like with all things, its about being prepared with the correct tools.


Personally, it's too much screwing around dealing with the dealer. Doing it myself takes 10 minutes and saves me $35.


Please don't just NOT adjust your chain... BAD things can happen...
That's a KLR, people are notorious for over tightening the chain on that bike. Believe it or not, Kawi has the spec slack too low on this bike. Nevertheless, chain maintenance is key to long chain life AND your safety. My Tuono has 20.5k on it and has original chain and sprockets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
Just picked up chain adjusters with built in/attached spools. Now I can use my PitBull stand until I find a deal on a 2nd rear stand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Well, I did it. Adjusted the chain that is. Was around 1.56ish inches of slack and is now at a snug .75 inch, almost a whole inch. Definitely makes a lot of difference when shifting now, much much smoother. I had no idea it would make such a huge difference. The notch indicators don't seem very comforting because it looks like if the bottom bolt comes loose even a little bit, it'll be out of alignment and you wouldn't be actually where the notch says it is if that makes sense. I watched the video and he's talking about doing one side at a time. I was unbolting the right side first but the entire bolt was spinning. I quickly learned that you need another wrench to hold the left side nut down/in place (conveniently a different size) so you can loosen the other side without spinning.


Either way, I followed the notch directions and it seems better now. Not sure how straight the tire is but since they're almost identical where the notch groove is, all I can do is hope that it's right.



Thanks guys!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
. The notch indicators don't seem very comforting because it looks like if the bottom bolt comes loose even a little bit, it'll be out of alignment and you wouldn't be actually where the notch says it is if that makes sense.

Thanks guys!
.
The axle will only try to pull forward towards the motor so the adjusters keep that from happening . That's there job .(besides helping to move the axle back) .. so as long as you lock the two nuts together (like a jam nut ) that will happen as long as the end plate is up against the end of the swing arm and the nuts are up against the plates. and Yes, like your thinking if the bottom nut backed off , that would allow the main nut to back off , therefore axle could move/slide forward... But with the Z's limited HP it probably wouldn't even pull forward even without the adjuster stops in place as long as the axle nut is tight .
.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
But check out this video , you should have the tools in your tool bag under the seat ! ;)

http://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...e-tech-maintenance-diy-videos.html#post111418
.
For those following .........
One thing this video doesn't mention is to have THE BIKE IN NEUTRAL this is CRITICAL because being in gear and on its side stand, depending where the timing is between the front and rear sprockets it will give a false reading on the actual chain slack ..
.
If its on a rear stand and the wheel is free to spin it doesn't matter, but still a good idea to have it in neutral .
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The notches don't mean squat. Just make sure the chain is aligned properly.
.
I used a 24" straight edge and a little line-of-sight . hold it tight against the rear sprocket . the straight edge should be flush to the outside surface of the counter sprocket. you have to remove the chain and guard , But the Z' being a budget bike build its a good idea to check it. You only have to do it once . After you see the setting difference from one side to the other, then you always use the difference factor any time you adjust your chain .
.
Mine was off a little , I need to have the left side back a notch widths worth farther back than the right side .
.
A video shows a Motion Pro tool that looks pretty nice , but never used one myself ..
.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top