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So my issue is that I am trying to remove the primary and secondary clutch nuts without having to use a clutch holder and a gear holder to do it. Whenever I attempt to remove the nuts it just keeps spinning and spinning even if I put the transmission into gear. I have seen a bunch of you have removed the clutch successfully and was wondering if someone could chime in on how they accomplished this. Thanks!
 

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So my issue is that I am trying to remove the primary and secondary clutch nuts without having to use a clutch holder and a gear holder to do it. Whenever I attempt to remove the nuts it just keeps spinning and spinning even if I put the transmission into gear. I have seen a bunch of you have removed the clutch successfully and was wondering if someone could chime in on how they accomplished this. Thanks!
I use a Dewalt impact driver. Works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I thought I would just follow up on the issue in case anyone else has a similar issue. Unfortunately, I did not have my impact driver available so what I did was this....

To remove the primary nut on the clutch I put a screw driver with a soft handle into one of the holes on the rear disc brake. When turning the clutch the screw driver will lodge up against the brake caliper to create leverage. Then the nut came off with no issue and there was no damage or issues with the caliper or disc.

To remove the secondary nut I had to do something a little unconventional but it totally worked. I stuck a rag in between the two sprockets behind the secondary nut to keep them from spinning. It provided enough leverage to remove the secondary nut. Just make sure you remove any cloth debris that might stick.

Again, this is not how I would recommend doing this if you are a professional but it worked without having to buy any tools. Thanks again everyone.
 

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A good cheap way to prevent an engine from turning for issues similar to this is to pull the spark plug and insert a few feet of cotton rope into the cylinder. Make sure the piston is not at TDC, and of course leave enough hanging out of the hole to pull it out when your finished. With the rope in place, as you turn the engine the piston will bunch it up and press against it until it can no longer turn. The rope is soft enough to not cause damage to anything. I would also make sure as your turning the engine your on the compression stroke to ensure the valves are closed.
 

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@impulse that trick with the rag in between gears is how a lot of old school VW guys get the flywheel bolt off without having the engine turn. Beats the **** out of a $150 wrench.
 

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Use a nickle between the gears, a penny was too soft when I did it.
Same thing when torquing it back down... and 53 ft/lbs is what is needed with a properly calibrated torque wrench.
 

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You (or a helper) could also stand on the brake. The nickel is interesting, may have to try that with an upgrade kit.
Trust me on the nickle, worked perfectly. One for off, one for on, so it only costs 10 cents. And only 5 cents if you have an impact. :smile2:
 

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I've heard rumors that the clutch basket torque spec (somewhere around 55 ft lbs I think) can shatter the clutch basket. Anyone have experience with this either way?
 

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Tommy says he broke one at 52 ft lbs . See video at 10:07 in and read comments
.
 

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He may need to calibrate his wrench. Everything was fine on mine at 53 with a high dollar digital wrench.
 

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He used an impact "set" to a torque value, or at least that is what I got when he tightened it. If he had a torque stick on there, maybe it would be close, but otherwise I wouldn't trust an impact to be more than within the entire ballpark grounds (including parking area) until you get into really high values (150+ foot pounds).
 

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At about 10:20 in the above video, an impact was definitely used. Was there a torque adapter on the end that allowed it to slip when it hit the correct torque?

Even my little 12v Hitachi is apparently too much with (rated) 955 in-lbs of torque (almost 80 ft-lbs but only in the "forward" direction). And yes I have been a dummy and broken bolts with that impact.
 

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He may need to calibrate his wrench. Everything was fine on mine at 53 with a high dollar digital wrench.
Yeah I had no problem with mine it's not digital but its calibration is good.
 
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Got to keep those click-type ones unloaded when not in use.
 

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Got to keep those click-type ones unloaded when not in use.
Absolutely, otherwise the spring weakens and it loses calibration.

The manuals with my Techton wrenches said to keep a super light load on them when not in use. So the one that goes 10-150 ft lbs I keep about 2 on when not in use. My in lb wrench same deal, a couple in lbs.

Also they are not as accurate as you get towards either extreme.
 
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