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This may seem basic to some, but to others this is a big step in doing their first oil change. I will post more procedures every few days if thats cool with everyone.
 

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Try the tags for your images. The attachments are always small and require readers to click on them. One way to do this is to upload attachments, then go back and edit your post with image tags.

[img]http://www.z125owners.com/forum/attachments/engines-discussions/9657d1499300885-maintenance-oil-change-procedure-kawasaki-z125_pro-service-manual-1.jpgp

 

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Oversize O-Ring ?

Did my first oil change
and at first the O-Ring seal seemed to big (Pic 2)
It seems over-sized in diameter to the groove (counter-bore) in the cap.
But after thinking about , It's probably designed to be over-sized ;)

I Ordered high flow filters from amazon , and got a fram's :mad:
but the filter measured the same as stock and is a good tight fit on the shaft so running it .
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And the Fram O-Ring was to small (Pic 3)

Lucky I also ordered 2 OEM O-Rings and they are as big (over-sized) as the stock one that was in there so it confirmed that it was the right one
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they do push into the groove with out popping out, even before using the grease.
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And just using the best oil my local auto supply store carries .
 

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What oil and filters are everyone using. I was looking at k&n I have used them in the past on larger bikes. Someone was saying they had trouble with full synthetic as far as the clutch goes.
 

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Why do we always over think this oil thing? I use Kawi filter, kawi conventional. If someone wants to use synthetic, go for it. And the he!! with spending a dime on anything k&n.
 

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What oil and filters are everyone using.
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How far down the rabbit hole do you want to go :rolleyes:
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http://www.z125owners.com/forum/engines-discussions/5529-lets-start-oil-thread.html
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Someone was saying they had trouble with full synthetic as far as the clutch goes.
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Seems to me it is specific to each bike , Make, HP, Actual clutch components as well as what brand of synthetic oil .
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Some Full synthetics can actually be to slippery for the clutch , is the internet rumor... and I have seen a lot of people post that there clutch slips . and when they switched back to semi or regular oil the clutch was fine again.
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I Don't think I've seen it here on this forum . and most here with aftermarket clutches (stronger springs) could over ride the issue ?
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and for those that are not aware, .do not use standard automotive oil ..
as long as the oil has "JASO MA" OR JASO MA4" on the label it is for motorcycles with wet clutches.
 

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I use a Kawi filter and Mobil 1 4t synthetic. I’ve had no problems with the clutch slipping, even when riding doubles. But I also upgraded my clutch and clutch springs.
 

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K&N KN-112 fit, they are cheap, like 3 bucks on amazon.
Personally I'm running dino oil, 10w40 motorcycle oil by Valvoline. under 5 bucks a quart at wallyworld.

Anyone have a good source for the oil filter cover oring?
 

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So seems the problem was the hex nut welded to the end of the canister to allow for easy removal. Welder must have been turned up to high. This was a problem limited to one specific model for about a month of production. I'm not too spooked here. YMMV.

I'm going to cut one open and compare it to OEM, I'll post a pic after my first change.
 

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That was just the lot that was recalled. They have been failing at many tracks for a while and many groups have banned K&N filters all together irregardless of lot code.
 
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