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Sounds like a plan, a 2.5hp shot would be a lot for these little machines, I bet the stock con. rod would pretzel with much over 2.5hp of NOS.
My guess is the head studs would be the weak link and it will blow a gasket. Sure hope it doesn't wreck a rod but there really is only one way to find out for sure.

The smallest jet I can get is a .009 and with a dry shot that will give me a bit over 3hp. With a wet shot (which is generally my preferred route) I'll need to use the smallest jet for fuel which puts me at about .015 for a nitrous jet. That computes to a little over 10hp. I think 10 would cause immediate and very explosive catastrophic failure.

During covidcation I invested in the large stand up nitrous cylinder and a transfer pump for refilling bottles. Also started carrying nitrous parts on the KB site. Now I'm looking at all the vehicles in a whole new way. 😈
 

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I am going to spray mine one day but it will not be no 3hp shot, lol it be 10-15, I have sprayed a scooter with one of the little cheap kits, I need to find a nice bottle I can hide under the seat, I have the solenoids already
 

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Best way to bore the case is with a big milling machine. After that I'd probably build something that bolts to the studs, but this could be really ugly. I've seen people use die grinders and sanding drums, but you'd want to be real careful that you don't get a tight or loose spot because it might cause the cylinder skirt to crack.
I have to agree that most machine shops will probably use a mill and angle plate like in the photo below. It 's a simple way to hold the cases securely enough to get an accurate sized hole. If it's too big or off center you might lose the small amount of gasket surface you will have left, causing sealing problems. If you are talented(or lucky) you can successfully do it with a die grinder. But most people should just have it done professionally if they don't feel comfortable with DIY case boring. Many automotive or smaller sized machine shops will do it for around $50.
Grom case bore.jpg IMG_20191012_163713.jpg
 

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I need to find a nice bottle I can hide under the seat, I have the solenoids already
Sounds like you want something similar to the super popular "Sneaky Pete" 10oz? IMO if it's less than 10oz it's not worth having unless we're talking RC cars. Sneaky Pete got it's name for a reason. I have 7 of these for sale, legit, new never used DOT spec but 10ish years old. I personally own 3 of these identical bottle/valve systems for a little over a decade. Cost effective, reliable, easy.

Valve included. Valve costs more than the bottle online, but bottles sell more frequently than valves. I've been tasked with clearing them out for a dealership I used to work for. Valves include DOT spec safety blow off.

100CAD + Shipping. New 10Oz AL Sneaky Pete and Valve.
2020-09-18 17.48.10.jpg 2020-09-18 17.48.47.jpg . PM me if you want one.
 

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At some point someone needs to just go ahead and shoe-horn an H2 motor into one of these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I’d like to find A custom piston that’s stronger long with a better rod and real good stroker crank so I don’t have to worr about any issues in the future anybody know where I can find them?
 

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If you want something custom, then it's probably not readily available. I HAVE heard of custom pistons made, but I'm not sure how much I'm allowed to say about them...
 

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I’d like to find A custom piston that’s stronger long with a better rod and real good stroker crank so I don’t have to worr about any issues in the future anybody know where I can find them?

Im considering having some custom forged pistons made up if we can get enough interest.
 

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2020 ż125
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Yes me too I bought the Z for a pit bike while racing and to bring to the go kart track and have fun. I have about 1800 miles on her and about 200 might be on the street and I don’t even think it’s that much. Lol I’ve already done about everything you can do to it. Ss brake lines, bars, Ohlins suspension, power commander, Yoshimura pipe, 143cc head, cam, v2 head, 28mm throttle body,short air intake, slicks,quick shifter, rear sets but I took them off because I liked the stock ones better. Double sinter pad and sprockets. Im sure there’s more but can’t remember lol

but it’s so much fun I can’t help it. I have no plans to sell her and figure it’s a long winter so screw it! I’m going to go 177cc and BST rims with some extensive head porting and an auto tune and I’m done .lol
What’s a quick shifter? And was it easy to install?
 

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Quick shifters allow you to clutchless upshift without letting go of the throttle (the system cuts off the throttle for you) and some can also allow clutchless downshift with autoblipping the throttle (with you off of it). I think the quick shifters attached to piggy back fuel controllers are easy to install (power commander or bazzaz).

Can you clutchless shift without one? Yes, you just have to be in the right rpm and its not as quick. I think motogp and other racing organizations made these popular. especially the need to not waste a millisecond on engaging a clutch and letting go of the throttle. Is it necessary for day to day? I dont think so but I am old school and enjoy the feeling of going through my gears.

Heres a good video -
 

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Oh wow! Clutchless up and down shifting?? Never heard of this before. I mentioned wanting to be more like a twist and go for riding and my very old fashioned riding husband didn’t mention this kind of mod. Probably wouldn’t occur to him to not go through the gear with a traditional shift because he also likes to feel each.

This is very intriguing. I sometimes drop the clutch when shifting because there’s just so much going on between others on the road, weather, pot holes and working to maintain street speed. I wonder if a quick clutch would help with my impatience of slowly letting out the clutch.
 

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the basic ones only offer clutchless upshifting and you can stay on the throttle. Just have to tap your foot to move into the next gear. The system cuts the gas, and handles the engagement of the clutch. It happens so quick that you save much needed time on a race track. Upshifting in slow traffic might not generate a high enough RPM for these systems to function well.

For the clutchless downshifting and autoblipping, you have to cut the throttle yourself and tap into the lower gear with your foot. It handles the rev matching for you to allow that downshift to occur, these are more complicated systems and I don't know if one exists for the this little Z. It might, I haven't looked into it myself.
 

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I don't know if one exists for the this little Z. It might, I haven't looked into it myself.
I don't know how you would do this on the Z with a cable driven throttle body. If the Z was drive by wire, this would be super easy.
 

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I’m lean towards the 177 kit. I already have the V2 head, cams and throttle body so really just need to get the cylinder and piston and do a kick *** porting job and figure out how to bore the case and I’m in business. Well and add my auto tuner. Lol
I just did all this and more
 

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Whos kit did you use? did you do the stroker crank also? How did you open up the case hole? Are you happy with it?
I just had a post on this with everything on my bike.
I used MNNTHBX, who is supplied by tbparts as far as the kit. I had a co-worker do it by hand. Perfect fit! Still in the breaking in period but totally loving it. Well worth it. Yes stroker crank. check out my post to see what i've put into this little Goblin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I ordered the 165 kit with the stroker crank, intake, cam and larger injector. Just need to port her real good and set up the auto tune. Looking forward to building her. What do you guys think the best gearing might be? Also has the 28mm throttle body and light weight fly wheel
 
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