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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LED Headlight Bulb

I Tried two of what I thought to be the best LED bulbs available and I am going with the Cyclops 10.0 Ultra

Videos and pictures are very different to what it actually looks like in real life due to Cameras, Locations,
But all 3 bulbs were tested on same road at the same locations in the Z125

Video comparing the Stock Halogen bulb to the ADVmonster Native 4 & Cyclops 10.0 Ultra

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Front Fork Mod's

Starting to try some different Mod's to improve the front suspension

Will add below Mod's separately as I do them due to 10 Picture limit

All these will be pending actual results after riding and Dis-Assembly inspection

1 / Adding more Travel

2 / Stiffen the Travel by adding more Pre-Load to the stock springs

3 / And changing to heaver fork fluid

First up / more Travel

Added 1" more travel by flipping the bottoming stop .

Basically a Free Mod using Washers

Pic 1 / Remove Forks
Pic 2 / Dis-Assemble Top Cap from tube
Pic 3 / Remove Collar Ring screw and remove top cap from damping tube and collar
Pic 4 / Free the Bottoming Stop from the circle clip and remove both
Pic 5 / Grind the bottoming stop top lip to flush
Pic 6 / Install circle clip in bottoming stop to bottom plate
Pic 7 / Install bottoming stop
Pic 8 / Install Grade 8 / 1/2" washer
Pic 9 / Blue Thread Locker to Cap Threads
Pic 10 / Install a 5/16" Harden Tooling washer (pic shown) better.
OR .... Two Grade 8 , 5/16" washers over Top Cap threads assemble and tighten

Re-Install fork tubes to Caps being very careful . the Fine Thread is easy to damage trying to re-assemble under load of the springs. I stuck one and barley got it apart and back together again !!!

Re-Assemble forks ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Travel Pic's

And It gave me 1" more of travel so instead of 3" there's 4" of actual compression travel

Plus the 1" top out counting the OEM way so 5" travel

I can not bottom the forks by hand now on the bike

Travel Pic's

Pic 1 / Full drop
Pic 2 / Full Bottom
Pic 3 / Travel
 

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Hey Kaw'ee,

Do you have a thread on adding those front fork suspension protectors? Thinking about just losing the front fender and going with the protectors and a small piece of material on top like what a mtn bike would use. Thanks and looking good!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's kind of a tough fit with the ABS radius not following the fork radius . but ABS is cheap so just buy enough for a couple of 3 or 4 try's . I can send you a paper pattern if need one but I know your a good fab'ee from your other posts

Fork Guards
 

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OIC, you must have drilled a hole through the oem mount for the 1/4 bolt to hold it on. If you have a paper guide handy that would save me some extra time. Yeah I am thinking of just the back part of the fender up until you get to the light and then maybe just an inch past that, something real short just to keep stop light spray off me (oil, spit, coffee, etc from the 'cagers lol). Had wanted to fab something earlier but got side tracked with my other hobbies. Good to see you're still riding and modding, it's winter here in Indiana so my fun machine is dormant!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still working on Travel
Previous mod the washers started giving up from bottoming (pic1)

Removed washers and ground chamfer in lock collar (pic 2) for it to seat up flat against top cap and then bottoming bushing up against it (pic 3)
and made another 1/4" of travel
will switch to just a 1 piece type shock bushing later, so even another 1/4" travel if coil bind doesn't show up

moved circle clip to top hole for rubber bottoming stop to be centered and hold it up (pic 4)
Clip will not be necessary when switching to a 1 piece stop with smaller I.D. / same O.D.

Re checked for coil bind (+1/4" ) still none

Changed out the fork seals so jumped up to max oil level with 10wt just shy of hydrolock (will add a little more spring rate per say)
Lots of back n forth level testing, but lt should be close to 7.1 oz with the new extra 1 1/4" travel

It still to soft, will go up to 15wt maybe even 20wt to avoid having to break the bottom legs loose to add a spacer, may not be room for spacer anyways with 1 1/4" mod

Or thinking about adding a 4" or so spring to the top side of damper section instead of adding more preload to the stock bottom spring with a spacer
Again, May have to with top 1 1/4" mod. I gotta be running out of spring ?

Cheep fix to avoid the doing it the right way with Ohlins kit
And could be done without pulling the forks and would have more travel .
It's not that I'm cheap' I just like the MacGyver stuff .... honest.... no really .... :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mikuni VM26-606 MOD

Mikuni VM26-606 MOD

I did this a while back and bikes running great with more snap off the throttle but mid & full throttle still feels the same. but i was going to try other Carbs and combinations so didn't post up while everything was still fresh on my mind wanting to post the best option for switching to carb mod i could come up with.

I Bought the TBParts Carb Kit for the KLX110 Stock head kit
Only the Carb and air filter was usable and ditched the filter for a UNI anyways ..
https://tboltusa.com/store/tbparts-...r-klx110-and-drz110-with-stock-head-p-86.html

Needed differant Intake, intate boot, differant jets, Throttle housing and cable, and air filter (my different choice)

Unplug and remove DFI system and tape off all connectors
No by-pass resistors or other modifications needed

Slot intake hole one side (intake for KLX) / pic 4
KLX has equal distance holes from port and the Z' has a offset hole @ one side only . but port matches up due to common hole they both share
Also slot gasket and open hole up to port size / pic 5

Install gas petcock in tank / pic 6

Remove 12v wires to fuel pump, but leave the sending unit wires for a working gas gauge / pic 7

KLX110 Throttle housing and cable and vented gas cap / pic 8

Laugh at check engine light being on / pic 9

Re-jet to best performance

Grip it & Rip it / pic 10 :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
what was the purpose of swapping to a carb instead of going with a bigger tb?
It had nothing to do with getting better performance.

Motorcycle Carb guy for 20 years, I no nothing about DFI except it cost big bucks to tune and replace anything that gos bad on it. With a $120 carb i will never have any of those issues and cost and i know how to fix it and tune it for $10 dollars worth of jets.

And also the fun and challenge of doing it :grin2:
.
 

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It had nothing to do with getting better performance.

Motorcycle Carb guy for 20 years, I no nothing about DFI except it cost big bucks to tune and replace anything that gos bad on it. With a $120 carb i will never have any of those issues and cost and i know how to fix it and tune it for $10 dollars worth of jets.

And also the fun and challenge of doing it :grin2:
.
i get it, it would be cool for these bikes to have an injection system similar to the automotive Holley systems that learn as you drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Still working on Fork Travel
Previous mod the washers started giving up from bottoming (pic1)
Ended up with a 1 3/4" more fork travel mod with 10wt oil and max oil level 15wt was to stiff for a nice smooth comfortable ride but if I was jumping or riding harder i would go to a higher wt oil

Only a 1/4" travel left (pic) before seals bottom out so thats max travel without making a new top cap design

 

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