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Discussion Starter #1
So recently when accelerating the tach will jump all over the place and even when holding a constant speed. I’ve recently replaced the speed sensor due to the speedometer no longer working.

Besides blowing up the gauge cluster, is there anything in regards to the tach that I can check?

I have the aracer ecu and the readings I get from that are constant and smooth.
 

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Only advice I have is to check your grounds. I assume you measured a consistent RPM with the Aracer phone app. If you have a scope, you might be able to scope the tach line from ECU to the cluster. Assuming it's not a CAN signal or something stupid, that might tell you if it's the signal coming out of the ECU or the cluster itself.


If you decide to bin the cluster, let me know. I've been looking for a 'broken' cluster I can pull apart without worrying about damaging a good unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It’s def not that gauge cluster. I took a known working unit off of another bike and it had the same results.
 

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My **** has done this since the day I swap in the aracer, some day better then other but I defently think it’s a Aracer issue
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My **** has done this since the day I swap in the aracer, some day better then other but I defently think it’s a Aracer issue
Well that’s def aggravating. I’ve had the aracer for over 6 months and it just started doing it this past weekend.

Did you ever utilize the aracer power meter?
 

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IIRC Hoedar had the same issue on the first few units they shipped out for the Z. I believe it was something they fixed in firmware. I know oscilloscopes are stupid expensive but it would be cool to see what the signal coming out of the Aracer looks like. It's possible it's just a sloppy signal getting muddied further by cable routing.


Now you piqued my interest... Please follow-up with anything you find out. If you need any captures of this or that, I can help out, but winter is fast approaching and the Z will soon be buried out in the garage for a few (feels like 6) months.
 

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You can get cheap oscopes for not too much money:

https://amzn.to/2qBl0UP

This would probably cover most of what you need for casual automotive work, and only $20

This one for $80 claims to have great specs., but I doubt it https://amzn.to/2JcLQsO

I need to get myself a decent scope-meter but they are kin of pricey for a decent Owon or the like.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can get cheap oscopes for not too much money:

https://amzn.to/2qBl0UP

This would probably cover most of what you need for casual automotive work, and only $20

This one for $80 claims to have great specs., but I doubt it https://amzn.to/2JcLQsO

I need to get myself a decent scope-meter but they are kin of pricey for a decent Owon or the like.
Man, that looks like something I would need a degree just to use the thing.



Here is a vid of what is happening compared to about 5 months ago.

 

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Bad connection? Something that vibrates around like a broken wire? I've had similar things happen when the copper inside breaks, and the insulation barely hold it together.

Also had similar from a cold solder joint that breaks free from vibration or heat (probably inside the ecu).

Could also be a voltage problem where the peak voltage on the waveform is too low, need a scope for that condition.
 
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