Kawasaki Z125 Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I lost my owner's manual.

What's the proper oil check method for the Z125?

Hot/cold?
Kickstand up/down?
Dipstick fully threaded back in or just in/out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Make sure bike is straight up and down and screw the dipstick in all the way to check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Engine warm, bike straight side to side on level a surface . Screw the dipstick in all the way in - remove and check oil level. Three marks on dipstick, low, middle and high. I aim for middle, but a bit above or below is good too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
759 Posts
Engine warm, bike straight side to side on level a surface . Screw the dipstick in all the way in - remove and check oil level. Three marks on dipstick, low, middle and high. I aim for middle, but a bit above or below is good too.

Warm engine? You want to make sure all the oil has run down to the oil pan when you check. I check mine on a cold engine so I don't have oil sitting in the head causing me to over fill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Warm engine? You want to make sure all the oil has run down to the oil pan when you check. I check mine on a cold engine so I don't have oil sitting in the head causing me to over fill.
I'm quoting the Kawasaki Owners service manual. I'm fairly sure cold is almost as accurate , as there is not a lot of oil to expand.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
759 Posts
Well. Look. At. That. You learn something every day. I've always checked my oil on all my engines cold. I'd say I've never had an issue, but my riding lawn mower has some serious rod knock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Well. Look. At. That. You learn something every day. I've always checked my oil on all my engines cold. I'd say I've never had an issue, but my riding lawn mower has some serious rod knock.
I doubt it matters whether cold or hot. I've had a lot of bikes and the rise in the level from hot to cold is minimal unless the bike is fitted with an oil cooler or coolers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Pretty much all Harleys are check HOT, the oil can get past check valves and into the crankcase giving you a false reading. Over filling end up with hot oil all over your leg, which is not a good day.
Same with BMW Oilheads. The two oil coolers retain about 1.25 Liters if the oil is not fully hot when the motor is shut down. No oil visible in the sight glass does not mean low oil on these motors. The engine must be at operating temp (20 minutes or more of running) to get an accurate reading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Pretty much all Harleys are check HOT, the oil can get past check valves and into the crankcase giving you a false reading. Over filling end up with hot oil all over your leg, which is not a good day.
Cause they are dry sump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
894 Posts
Same with BMW Oilheads. The two oil coolers retain about 1.25 Liters if the oil is not fully hot when the motor is shut down. No oil visible in the sight glass does not mean low oil on these motors. The engine must be at operating temp (20 minutes or more of running) to get an accurate reading.
Can confirm, I overfilled my oilhead the first time I changed it thanks to this. Derp!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Can confirm, I overfilled my oilhead the first time I changed it thanks to this. Derp!
Ando...That was a very common issue with the Oilheads. It was discussed for years on the forums. BMW never explained what normal operating temp was. It took some time for these motors to get hot enough for the coolers to open their valves and let go of the retained oil. Good motors though...just a few quirks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
894 Posts
Ando...That was a very common issue with the Oilheads. It was discussed for years on the forums.
Overheating at idle was also discussed ad-nauseam so I was pretty anxious about letting it get "hot". Think I've got it figured out now but it was certainly a head scratcher until I realized what was going on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Overheating at idle was also discussed ad-nauseam so I was pretty anxious about letting it get "hot". Think I've got it figured out now but it was certainly a head scratcher until I realized what was going on.
The motor, like most motors , needs to be under load and moving through air to warm properly and completely. At idle "hot spotting" is supposed to occur especially on header pipes and exhaust valves. Ride your R1150 motor for 20 minutes or more and it'll be a correct oil reading.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top