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Highest Mileage Z125 on here?

27K views 42 replies 28 participants last post by  OttoOktobre1984 
#1 ·
Curious -- who has the highest mileage Z125 on here?

Go!
 
#10 ·
@Bryan Krae has a speedo for sale with 9XXX miles. I think that's a new winner if those miles are real. Anyone else want to update their totals?

On a similar note, what would everyone consider a high mileage Z125 considering they spend most of their life at WOT and a larger than average portion of it on one wheel?
 
#17 ·
Yes, that's an important clarification. The sensor may be on the same shaft as the front sprocket, but it's actual sensing device is INside the case to read the shaft rpm, and NOT in any way dependant upon the number of teeth on the sprocket. Which leads to an interesting set of circumstances:

The sensor's reading is dependent only upon engine rpm and what gear the bike is in. So, when you change the front sprocket size, you don't change the sensor output. But that's the problem. Because when you reduce or increase the size of the front sprocket, you change the rpm of the rear wheel, which reduces or increases respectively the distance the wheel covers per second, and so the actual speed of the bike becomes lower or higher respectively THAN WHAT THE SENSOR STILL BELIEVES THE ROAD SPEED TO BE. THAT's why your speedo will then read higher or lower respectively than actual.

In "the old days", speedometers were typically cable driven off the front wheel, so gearing changes did not make the speedometer read too high or too low. But inserting a cheap sensor, and running a set of wires to it, is cheaper than providing a speedometer cable housing at the front wheel, a cable (that breaks from time to time), and room within and around the speedometer to run and attach the cable. And, "correction" of an inaccurate speedometer was much more difficult (required either a mini speedo cable gearbox or removing and reworking the mechanical speedometer). So, the manufacturers changed over to sensors, and it's, overall, probably a good thing,

Jim G
 
#20 ·
$35 for a clutch kit and a couple hours of your time is pretty reasonable. Schedule it around an oil change because you will need to drain the oil or lay the bike on it's side to swap out the clutch plates. Several good videos on youtube of how to change the clutch plates, and I think Hard Racing or Man in the Box had the best price and an optional gasket. It was a Tbolt KLX110 upgrade kit and I know I got it from one of the advertisers here because it was easy to order and I knew I would get the right pieces. The gasket is like $5.00 or $10.00usd, just go and add it so you don't need to worry about wrecking the old one.

The only real special tool you should have is a deep well socket for the flywheel nut, if you watch my video you can see why.
 
#22 ·
I worked out if i can ride instead of driving my car everyday, it'll pay for itself in a bit over 2 years. So thats why I havent wanted to spend any extra money on it.

Ive had a few other bikes and i always tell people even though its not that fast its the most fun bike ive had and probably ridden. I also ride a R1 a bit. Personally i find it painful idling along in 2nd and 3rd all the time.

I have a clutch kit waiting for it. Ill do it over the break. And cheers ill check the videos out
 
#32 ·
Yeah, it is a reliable motor that has been around since 2002 in the US KLX110. It was in Asian scooters even before that and they rack up some serious miles as daily drivers in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, etc. Just change the oil every 3000 miles(or sooner) and it will last a long time. And if something does happen, OEM & aftermarket parts are relatively cheap and plentiful. Good luck.
 
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