[Greg_E]

Ummm... Narrow band running at 13.x:1 will not read any variation. At 14.7-ish it will oscillate between less than 1 volt and more than 1 volt output as the mixture varies SLIGHTLY. https://www.a-i-e.com.au/tech_stuff/view/6974/narrow_band_oxygen_sensors

This make me doubt everything they just said since a narrow band can't really do anything once it gets that rich, you will just be producing 1.xx volts and the computer can't know what is happening.

Also closed loop is running through control, open loop has no control from the o2 input, again refer to the link above.

 

[Greg_E]

Open loop should still obey what the fuel trims have been set to, just that the trims will not be changed during open loop.

 

[Greg_E]

With modern fuels, reading plugs gets harder. All the additives make the insulator cleaner on average.

I can't decide if I see some shrouding on that plug from the ground strap or not. I'm tempted to index mine when it comes out.

Closed loop is where the trims are set as well as added to the programmed value, open loop the trims are added to the programmed value. These fuel foolers can often screw up your trims which causes the full throttle (open loop) to go way lean. Had a Dobeck what'samacallit on my Buell and it really screwed it over. Not sure how the EFIE works but I've seen plenty of people suggest they work pretty well, even on bikes that still have closed loop functional.

Why they work might be down to the limits set for the trim function. If you change intake and exhaust, then the trims may not be allowed to go far enough to fully cover the changes. Since the EFEI adds duration to the pulses driving the injector, it may add that little extra needed to let the fuel trims stay in their allowed range. Fuel trims on some vehicles are limited to 85-90% through 125% which generally covers their intended working conditions through elevation changes to about 10,000 feet (maybe slightly more) and atmospheric changes in pressure. Generally.

I hope someone cracks the factory ECM programming and gives us a cheap application to allow tuning, otherwise if I ever get where I'm modding for performance it will be a Hoedar ECM so I have full control over timing and fuel.

 

[Greg_E]

12:1 is actually too rich for max power unless you have like 15% alcohol fuel, might have to run the common 10% alcohol stuff it this bike. That said, you might have been reading rich because the sensor might have been too far into the pipe. My Innovate MT-X wants a 1 inch bung for small tubes like we have, this is what I welded to my KAYO and it worked well until the sensor failed.

I just jumped the gap by feeding more wire into it when I did the KAYO. It's ugly, but I'm a hack so I don't care, was done with a cheap fluxcore welder.

 

[Greg_E]

You should check the amount of protrusion into the exhaust, the sensor accounts for a pretty big disturbance in these little pipes. The least amount of protrusion that still works is the best way to go.

What fuel are you using? We might want to tune using different amounts of alcohol to get that max power right where we want it. Maybe a little Seafoam or Lucas cleaner added to thin it out. I may need to weld a second bung on my exhaust and do some looking. Start with 90 octane alcohol free and work backwards until I get the power where I want in open loop full throttle and let the computer worry about mid throttle. Assuming I get time for racing next season, want all this stuff worked ahead of time.

 

[Greg_E]

Keep in mind that narrow band o2 is not really an analog signal. They basically switch back and forth between rich and lean, the system never really finds a place and holds. The switching tells the system when things are good, and the system is constantly making adjustments back and forth to get that swing for a check.

I'm wondering if you might want to use the analog output from your wideband to simulate the effect you want, night at least get some understanding of what Kawasaki is doing in the ECU, the EFIE may not work because of this. Kind of an expensive work around to suggest that everyone runs a wideband meter and simulates a narrow band on the output, but it might help us gain some understanding of the stock ECU.

Take a look at this article https://www.a-i-e.com.au/tech_stuff/view/6974/narrow_band_oxygen_sensors

 

[Greg_E]

The only thing I can think of as to why this isn't working might be where they talk about the Titanium sensors giving a resistance. Is it possible this is the type of sensor that we have in the Z?

I will still probably weld up a bung for my AFR meter, but not likely this season since the season is basically over. 50 degrees and rain all day, barely got above 60 the last 2 days... I'm afraid Winter is here and will stay through to about May. And the AFR meter might depend on what I do with my KAYO, if there is room, that gauge will be going in there, it's carbed so it would make jetting much nicer than simply relying on temperature estimates for jet sizes. Need to make a new display area once I get my shift light working, shift light has a tacho in it so I can remove the big in-accurate tach and put in some aluminum. Have to see how things go. Need to make room for a battery in the KAYO as well. Also need some switches to turn on the power from battery, and turn on the cameras for recording.

For those that have no idea what I'm talking about, here are the two posts on the shift light:
Shift light and tachometer - part1
Shift light part 2

 

[Greg_E]

I'm guessing you will end up somewhere between 0.125 and 0.250 offset on the current intake and pipe. all bets are off on new intake and pipe, but you might get lucky.

 

[Greg_E]

In general, the WOT seems very much too rich. Dipping down into 11.x will lower your power. Sounds like you have discovered a good combination of things and the max power up closer to 13 would be best for alcohol free fuel. Throw in 15% ethanol and you'll want to be down around 12.4.

 

[Greg_E]

I think going from 8hp to 10hp would be something you would really notice in the seat of the pants.