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Discussion Starter #1
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Driven Racing has released these Top Quality Rear sets.
As many of you know, they are made in the good ole' USA.

That means, top quality, fit and finish.
They are multiple piece design, and of course easily accessible replacement parts (in the event your bike tips over, or you damage a piece).



They can be setup for STANDAD or GP SHIFT.

We will have a complete Review and installation video soon.

>> DRIVEN REAR SETS <<

But, for now, here are a sneak peak.


















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Awesome! I like the fact that they have heel guards. I really wish they had round footpegs, though, like the set they made for the Grom. I think I read that the ones for the Z are folding pegs? Would have preferred they had made them fixed. Still, I'll definitely consider them when I'm ready, as the heel guards are a huge plus.

Edit: just read the description again...it's the toe pegs that fold, which is great. So are the pegs fixed? Is there an option to fit the round-style?

Driven makes quality stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome! I like the fact that they have heel guards. I really wish they had round footpegs, though, like the set they made for the Grom. I think I read that the ones for the Z are folding pegs? Would have preferred they had made them fixed. Still, I'll definitely consider them when I'm ready, as the heel guards are a huge plus.

Edit: just read the description again...it's the toe pegs that fold, which is great. So are the pegs fixed? Is there an option to fit the round-style?

Driven makes quality stuff.
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Definitely, top quality stuff.

We run them on nearly all our bikes.




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YES!

I will be placing an order for some goodies when I get back from Laguna Seca!
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Sounds like a plan.

Laguna should be a great race weekend this year. Specially with the addition of MotoAmerica.

Lots to watch and enjoy.



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Rear Sets and additional installed

Installed and love them. Only issue I have found is the standard rear brake switch will not work. I did not add the hydronic switch that was in the drop down menu, which appears I may need to order. Love the look and quality though.

 

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Installed and love them. Only issue I have found is the standard rear brake switch will not work. I did not add the hydronic switch that was in the drop down menu, which appears I may need to order. Love the look and quality though.

Ah, you just answered my question - I was wondering if the brake switch light worked. Not surprising, most don't. Except the ones MNNTHBX makes, but I don't think those have a heel guard.
Pressure banjo bolt it is, if I even bother....
 

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Ah, you just answered my question - I was wondering if the brake switch light worked. Not surprising, most don't. Except the ones MNNTHBX makes, but I don't think those have a heel guard.
Pressure banjo bolt it is, if I even bother....
First real ride today. Love the rear sets. For me, the feel of the heal guards are perfect. Everything feels solid and very happy. I was thinking of just scrapping the rear brake switch, but I found a fix I am testing. Bending solid wire as an extension. Hook up to existing spring with a bent loop, the down and up around brake lever, with a final small outward bend to keep anything from scratching. I gave it enough distance if it shifts so it takes about 20% movement before it activates, in case the wire slides in either direction, so it can't activate without foot pressure. It has not moved from its current position though. Working great so far. I can post a photo if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First real ride today. Love the rear sets. For me, the feel of the heal guards are perfect. Everything feels solid and very happy. I was thinking of just scrapping the rear brake switch, but I found a fix I am testing. Bending solid wire as an extension. Hook up to existing spring with a bent loop, the down and up around brake lever, with a final small outward bend to keep anything from scratching. I gave it enough distance if it shifts so it takes about 20% movement before it activates, in case the wire slides in either direction, so it can't activate without foot pressure. It has not moved from its current position though. Working great so far. I can post a photo if needed.
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Thanks for following up with this great feedback.
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First real ride today. Love the rear sets. For me, the feel of the heal guards are perfect. Everything feels solid and very happy. I was thinking of just scrapping the rear brake switch, but I found a fix I am testing. Bending solid wire as an extension. Hook up to existing spring with a bent loop, the down and up around brake lever, with a final small outward bend to keep anything from scratching. I gave it enough distance if it shifts so it takes about 20% movement before it activates, in case the wire slides in either direction, so it can't activate without foot pressure. It has not moved from its current position though. Working great so far. I can post a photo if needed.
Sure, I'd like a picture if you can, thanks. I've used the pressure banjo bolts before (I assume that's what they are talking about when they say hydronic switch - the brake banjo bolt with wires coming out of it), and they take a lot of pressure to activate. Light braking doesn't activate them, only full pressure. Often, when coming to a controlled stop, it wasn't enough to activate the switch. At least that was my experience on another bike. The manual switch is much more sensitive.
 

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Sure, I'd like a picture if you can, thanks. I've used the pressure banjo bolts before (I assume that's what they are talking about when they say hydronic switch - the brake banjo bolt with wires coming out of it), and they take a lot of pressure to activate. Light braking doesn't activate them, only full pressure. Often, when coming to a controlled stop, it wasn't enough to activate the switch. At least that was my experience on another bike. The manual switch is much more sensitive.
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Unfortunately, since they are for RACE USE ... they don't retain the stock brake switch.
But, as you can see......... it can be done. ;-)

The hydraulic switch is what most guys use. or no switch.
Of course then you just need to make sure you are always applying your front brake when slowing down. Which most people do.


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Test setup works good, but not happy with metal on metal. Pulled off and using better wire and then going to PlastiDip to coat it to protect rear set and look clean. Currently not using anything and actually not a big deal. May not even use rear switch once project is done, but I enjoy problem solving so continuing on. Photo is of test setup, which works.
 

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Unfortunately, since they are for RACE USE ... they don't retain the stock brake switch.
But, as you can see......... it can be done. ;-)

The hydraulic switch is what most guys use. or no switch.
Of course then you just need to make sure you are always applying your front brake when slowing down. Which most people do.


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Oh yeah, point taken :wink2: I've had Sato and Woodcraft rearsets, neither of which retain the stock switch. So I wasn't at all surprised that Drivens also do not. I've used the pressure banjo, I may do that again, just to be "legal" or may look into what Procinctu has done.

Yup, don't use the rear brake much, and usually never alone!

I like that you offer it as an option, so there is no searching the web for one!
 

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Oh yeah, point taken :wink2: I've had Sato and Woodcraft rearsets, neither of which retain the stock switch. So I wasn't at all surprised that Drivens also do not. I've used the pressure banjo, I may do that again, just to be "legal" or may look into what Procinctu has done.

Yup, don't use the rear brake much, and usually never alone!

I like that you offer it as an option, so there is no searching the web for one!
If you are in to your own fixes, mine is done and works perfect. Bend rigid wire, PastiDip, then drop in. I ran a test with with a paper clip for the design and verify switch activation. PlastiDip a couple coats on final extension and no rubbing and holds good. Still not a major issue as its your rear brake, but below is what I did to use existing switch.


 

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If you are in to your own fixes, mine is done and works perfect. Bend rigid wire, PastiDip, then drop in. I ran a test with with a paper clip for the design and verify switch activation. PlastiDip a couple coats on final extension and no rubbing and holds good. Still not a major issue as its your rear brake, but below is what I did to use existing switch.


Nice solution!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
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Very nice.

That's definitely, thinking outside the box. ;-)


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Here is what i did to make my Driven rear sets utilize the factory rear springs

IMG_2319.jpg

I had to make a small Aluminum ear with two holes that sits above the brake lever. Then drill a hole in the brake lever where the factory spring should go and bolt it with a lock nut. Factory brake return spring and brake switch now work as they did on the stock brake pedal.
 
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