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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Or at least I hope it will be.

I spent some time searching the site looking for an answer but I came up short.

Looking for replacement clutch cables.

Want to eliminate the metal bend off the clutch lever as I have heard it is the weak point. Would also like something a touch longer than stock. After installing handle bar risers clutch cable is a bit tight at full turn left.

Can some one help me out? Many thanks.
 

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KLX110 Cable works / per a few members here on the forum
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ZX10R Cable works / but uses up all the adjustment to work, Tried one myself but didnt like the fit , went back to stock cable
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Stock Cable works / and probably wont break when re-routed from the stock routing locations
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All 3 cables are plenty long enough even with 2" risers when re-routed from the stock routing locations .
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As always, just my .02
 

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KLX110 ZX10R & STOCK Cables

KLX 110 Cable
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1 Post here on the forum says the KLX cable use's all of the adjustment at both lever and side case and is on the tight side, so the clutch lever free play is none. and some slight clutch engagement still when mounted
Clutch cable
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2 other post just say it worked.
Clutch cable
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Clutch cable
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But none of the above specify if using stock or aftermarket levers. Could make a difference ?
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ZX10R Cable
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The straight end design type cables at the side case seamed to be to much bend for a straight cable and thinking the cable exiting the housing spring-guide could be wearing hard at that point . The bends in the stock cable are to provide a straight exit out of the spring-guide
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I would think the KLX110 Cable would be the same being a straight cable unless it's not quite as stiff ? (just assuming here)
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With the stock air box the best routing option i found was with it laying on the throttle pivot plate (see link) and didn't want to tie it back somewhere and put even more bend at the spring-guide to cable exit point even more. If your not using the stock air box the routing options could be better ?
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Clutch Cable Mod'
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Stock clutch cable Re-routing / Pics 1-2 & 3
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I can still wish they were cheaper, no matter the number of parts or quality... They are know to be quality in the products that they make. If it was cheaper, I would entertain it, but clutch cables are cheap and it take a large number of failures to make up the difference or a very specific custom that can't be done any other way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For anyone using stock bars w/ 1" risers:

I found taking the throttle cable out of the clip on the right side of the air box made a big difference to relieve tensions. When I had the throttle cable out and re-routed per Ka'wee's pics it was actually too long and bulged out when steering was locked to the right. So I left just the clutch cable in that retainer clip but otherwise followed the re-route and it is perfect now, it was binding up pretty bad and rubbing at full turn left, now it briskly hits the steering stop without any resistance. I'm much more confident with this setup now. Thanks.
 

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For anyone using stock bars w/ 1" risers:

I found taking the throttle cable out of the clip on the right side of the air box made a big difference to relieve tensions. When I had the throttle cable out and re-routed per Ka'wee's pics it was actually too long and bulged out when steering was locked to the right. So I left just the clutch cable in that retainer clip but otherwise followed the re-route and it is perfect now, it was binding up pretty bad and rubbing at full turn left, now it briskly hits the steering stop without any resistance. I'm much more confident with this setup now. Thanks.
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Good to point that out for 1" risers and stock bars set ups :wink2:
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I'm using 2" risers and 1" higher than stock bars (3" total)
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If you could post up some pic's for others with 1" risers and found what you fit best would be great.
Also good idea for even stock bars and no risers with the cable breaking issue.
 
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