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Discussion Starter #1
I see a lot of threads talking about oil in threads but no dedicated oil thread.

I have only done the oil change twice, filter once. I am currently using Catrol 4T for break in. I will be racing the bike so my next change will be with a synthetic. Right now I am looking at Motul.
I know of some using Rotella, and royal purple.

What are you guys using and why?
 

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Amsoil metric 10w40 and its because my buddy is a dealer so I get it at cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so no clutch issues with rotella T6?
Also what are your intervals looking like?
Are you guys changing the filter every other oil change?
 

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so no clutch issues with rotella T6?
Also what are your intervals looking like?
Are you guys changing the filter every other oil change?
Rotella and clutch slip "issues" are all over the map with folks. Some "I used it once and the clutch slipped and I dumped it out after 100 miles. Will never use it again." But by far more people I've read say "I've been using it for 15 years and 100,000 miles. No issues."
 

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so no clutch issues with rotella T6?
Also what are your intervals looking like?
Are you guys changing the filter every other oil change?
Rotella and clutch slip "issues" are all over the map with folks. Some "I used it once and the clutch slipped and I dumped it out after 100 miles. Will never use it again." But by far more people I've read say "I've been using it for 15 years and 100,000 miles. No issues."
I have one friend with bike that said that T6 made his clutch slip. I have another friend with a track bike who put it in at the beginning of the season then did around 20 track days without changing the oil once. He never mentioned anything about the clutch slipping. I think they were both GSXRs (I know the track bike was) but I don't remember for sure.

Rotella T6 uses a similar Group III base stock as any other "fully synthetic" motor oil that sells for less than $15/qt, I'd assume (the $15+qt stuff uses Group IV and V diesters that are truly fully synthetic). I'd be curious what additives are in a motor oil that's marketed as a specialty, if any, and how much they actually make a difference.
 

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I use Rotella but not the T6. i use the 15w40 dino and change the oil and filter every 1000 miles. I put it in everything I own. Bikes, mowers, cars, trucks, tractor... its a miracle fluid. Just make sure you use 15W40 as the 10W30 is not JASO certified.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have one friend with bike that said that T6 made his clutch slip. I have another friend with a track bike who put it in at the beginning of the season then did around 20 track days without changing the oil once. He never mentioned anything about the clutch slipping. I think they were both GSXRs (I know the track bike was) but I don't remember for sure.

Rotella T6 uses a similar Group III base stock as any other "fully synthetic" motor oil that sells for less than $15/qt, I'd assume (the $15+qt stuff uses Group IV and V diesters that are truly fully synthetic). I'd be curious what additives are in a motor oil that's marketed as a specialty, if any, and how much they actually make a difference.
I heard that Rotella was really good because they had a lot of Zinc for protection, but they were forced to change their formula relatively recently to comply with API standards.
I am not completely sure on this information, its just what a lot of hearsay from the Subaru guys, which are very big Rotella users.
 

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I heard that Rotella was really good because they had a lot of Zinc for protection, but they were forced to change their formula relatively recently to comply with API standards.
I am not completely sure on this information, its just what a lot of hearsay from the Subaru guys, which are very big Rotella users.
You're referring to Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). It's used to coat components to reduce wear. It's sort of a backup-plan if the oil isn't fully protecting (oversimplification), and probably in general helps with reducing wear. If I remember correctly it's more important in older engines that use a specific type of valvetrain. ZDDP levels in oil needed to be reduced because the phosphorous in ZDDP would end up "clogging" catalytic converters which would reduce their effectiveness. They make "high zinc" oils for older vehicles, or vehicles that don't have catalytic converters. I'm fairly certain that if you change your oil regularly and your oil system is distributing the oil well then there isn't a need for high ZDDP oil. There are also alternatives to ZDDP that may be found in oil, but I don't know much about them.
 
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