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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was bringing my Z out of winter storage and of course it wouldn't start. First the battery was dead so I replaced that, I forgot to switch my battery tender between my bigger bike and the Z. After switching the battery the bike turns the starter but doesn't sound like it gets any ignition.
I checked the sparkplug for a spark and it had a pretty visible spark, it was the original spark plug so I replaced it anyway.
Here is where my knowledge of what to check ends, I thought maybe the gas had gone bad so I changed that out for some fresh fuel. I also tried using some starter fluid since at one point it sounded like it almost coughed to life, and the starter fluid had the same effect but it never quite started.
I have exhausted my google-fu which normally led me to this site anyway when it comes to the Z. If this is the wrong spot for this kind of question sorry about that. I appreciate any suggestions on what I can check.
 

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If your battery is dying you will have problems.
One thing with the z is when cold it’s hard to start but I’ve found that if you put the side stand up it starts a lot easier.
I’ve wondered if it’s got something to do with the tip over sensor.
Anyhow good luck..
 

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Prior to actually trying to fire it up with the key in the on position do you hear the fuel pump prime?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Prior to actually trying to fire it up with the key in the on position do you hear the fuel pump prime?
High pitch little whine for 1-3 seconds after key turn? If so yeah I hear it. Otherwise what am I listening for?
 

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hmm fuel injector maybe?
Edit: Sorry yes that 3 second prime noise is the noise of it priming, if it only comes on for a second I believe it means the ECU kicked in an anti theft feature and stopped it from finishing the priming. It should always be around 3 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
hmm fuel injector maybe?
Edit: Sorry yes that 3 second prime noise is the noise of it priming, if it only comes on for a second I believe it means the ECU kicked in an anti theft feature and stopped it from finishing the priming. It should always be around 3 seconds.
Is there a way I can test the fuel injectors to rule them out?
Also went and double checked for the pump sound and its closer to 3-5 seconds but it is there and sounds just like it has since day one.
 

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also a thought, check your ignition fuse. I will defer to people with more mechanical expertise for testing the injector. Here is a quick diagram from kawee for the fusebox.

26620
 

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Are you using a fuel controller ?

Any new mod changes at all before storing

If you have meter gages light (neutral light) ignition fuse is good
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Are you using a fuel controller ?

Any new mod changes at all before storing

If you have meter gages light (neutral light) ignition fuse is good
no fuel controller, before storing it I had changed the clutch plates and springs and done a tail tidy and integrated tail light(plug and play). It started up no problem after these as I test rode it after.

I bought a darkknight stunt cage and installed that over the winter. got a new chain and rear sprocket too. I don't think any of this should effect starting besides maybe the clutch work.

I reopened the clutch to double check my work since it wasnt starting anyway and replaced the the primary with a lightened one from mnnthbx, buttoned it back up and still didnt start. sounds the same too.
Edit:
I put an m take air intake on when I did the lightened primary.
 

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Start with the easy checks first in order
Preform these one at a time a check starting each time
Wiggle all engine connectors and push together harder, Fuel injector and throttle body sensors
Jump from auto battery even though its new and tests good
Jump side stand switch or make permanent
Do VDS bypass
Do a TPS reset
Check coil
Check diode # 2
Run CEL Diagnostic test
Check fuel pump

Probably, Crankshaft Sensor or ECU if all of these tested
Or something really stupid simple

SIDESTAND BY-PASS.JPG VEHICLE DOWN SENSOR.JPG SELF DIAGNOSIS  #5.png COIL IGNITION.JPG DIODE #2.png

CEL SELF DIAG'.JPG

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Start with the easy checks first in order
Preform these one at a time a check starting each time
Wiggle all engine connectors and push together harder, Fuel injector and throttle body sensors
Jump from auto battery even though its new and tests good
Jump side stand switch or make permanent
Do VDS bypass
Do a TPS reset
Check coil
Check diode # 2
Run CEL Diagnostic test
Check fuel pump

Probably, Crankshaft Sensor or ECU if all of these tested
Or something really stupid simple

View attachment 26621 View attachment 26622 View attachment 26623 View attachment 26624 View attachment 26625

View attachment 26626

Thank you so much for such a complete to do list, bike fired right up after the VDS bypass. You guys are awesome for helping me out I really appreciate it.
 
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