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I just bought a this 2017 Z125 off of Craigslist. The bike only has 94 miles on. The previous owner lost interest and sold it after sitting for 2 plus years.
I decide to do an oil change on it to swap out the old oil. I reach down to undo the drain plug and it didn’t take much force to loosen it. Along with oil dripping into my hand, metal shavings and the drain plug fall into my hand.
I tried to screw the plug back in but oil kept leaking out. Attached is what the drain plug looks like currently and it is super loose.
I am trying to figure out what my options are to repair this? Is there enough threads in the case I can retap the hole? Or is my better bet pulling the engine and having the drain rewelded? Or do I need to get a whole new crankcase.
Please let me know if anyone has experience with this or their suggestions.
 

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Not enough case there to take down (mill) to first flat condition and clean-up tap it unless you really baby it when re-tightening it every time. (pic)

Not being able to properly clean the inside for welding will be a issue for that fix, but probably worth the try if you find a welder that can keep the inside oil from bubbling up into the weld and if hes willing to even try it.

New case is the real fix but I'd be calling the seller and wanting to return it, he had to of known and why he hasn't been riding it, and selling it.

Desperate attempts
They make expandable rubber plugs but for that small of hole ?

Take down little as possible to clean to drill and tap for Pipe thread and use pipe thread plug with tape, A expand force on the hole would be better than a pull of a bolt with minimum wall thickness.
does appear to be room to drill and tap ? (pic)

Seal off hole with JB Weld type stuff, and remove clutch cover for future oil drains along with lower case filter cleaning (pic) . Should drain mid engine by way of lower screen filter port ?

s-l1600 (42).jpg oil filter screen.jpg s-l1600 (14) - Copy.jpg
 

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Not enough case there to take down (mill) to first flat condition and clean-up tap it unless you really baby it when re-tightening it every time. (pic)

Not being able to properly clean the inside for welding will be a issue for that fix, but probably worth the try if you find a welder that can keep the inside oil from bubbling up into the weld and if hes willing to even try it.

New case is the real fix but I'd be calling the seller and wanting to return it, he had to of known and why he hasn't been riding it, and selling it.

Desperate attempts
They make expandable rubber plugs but for that small of hole ?

Take down little as possible to clean to drill and tap for Pipe thread and use pipe thread plug with tape, A expand force on the hole would be better than a pull of a bolt with minimum wall thickness.
does appear to be room to drill and tap ? (pic)

Seal off hole with JB Weld type stuff, and remove clutch cover for future oil drains along with lower case filter cleaning (pic) . Should drain mid engine by way of lower screen filter port ?

View attachment 25798 View attachment 25799 View attachment 25800
Thank you for your insight. My mechanic right now is looking a the drain to see if he can retap it but I think you might be right on not having enough case to rethread the new drain.
I do have a welder that pretty good and told me to leave the engine out and drain it for a couple days for all the oil to get out. He has done a lot of jobs for me before and on way more expensive bikes.
The last option obviously would buy a new case. I do not have experience with this motor, but would I need to buy both sides of the case or just the left side? Also will I need to buy new gaskets and hardware? How many hours am I looking at to have it replaced?
 

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Go with your gut instinct and have it welded since it's the simplest and best option for multiple reasons. While you could replace only the LH crankcase(about $100), you will essentially have to completely rebuild the engine to swap it out. Just for a broken drain plug? No thanks. The drain plug is far enough away from any critical items like bearings and gasket surfaces that it shouldn't cause any other issues if he knows what he's doing. This is actually a very common problem with off-road bikes(think drain bolt vs. big rocks) and I've had to do it once myself. So drain the oil, pull the engine & clean it up. Then leave the rest to him. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 

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If you got a good fabbie welder that has done repairs like that good deal.
Cant tell by your pic (dark) if crack goes all the way to mid split ? So just left side if not look at (Top left pic)

Heres a look at splitting the cases by one of our members for guesstimating hours
Not sure if he covers gaskets and hardware, except flywheel puller .

 

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Helicoil? I've used those on a couple of pans over the years with excellent success. In fact I think the helicoil threads are harder than the originals. Trickiest part is to try and get any shavings out afterwards. Coat the tap with grease and keep a little blob on the end. Flush the engine with cheap oil afterwards to try and get any remaining shavings out. Then put the plug in and fill as normal.

If you're considering tapping it but are worried about meat, why don't you just go up one size in diameter? Sure you will have a unique drain plug but maybe 1 in 1000 people would ever know, or notice.
 

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Alumiweld stuff would probably work real well there, or tig weld. But still going to need to drill and tap after. But might be worth filling with alumiweld while the drain plug is installed. I don't think it will stick to the steel, so you might be able the flow in the threads.

Guessing it was tightened too much and broke when you tried to loosen it. With very few miles that may have been a dealer induced problem.
 

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Helicoil is definitely the answer! I just saw these for the first time on Youtube a few weeks ago. They are amazing! Essentially you drill it, re-tap it, and screw in a helicoil that is the right size, and then you are set! Here's what they look like: McMaster-Carr Here's an example video:
 

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Helicoil? I've used those on a couple of pans over the years with excellent success. In fact I think the helicoil threads are harder than the originals. Trickiest part is to try and get any shavings out afterwards. Coat the tap with grease and keep a little blob on the end. Flush the engine with cheap oil afterwards to try and get any remaining shavings out. Then put the plug in and fill as normal.

If you're considering tapping it but are worried about meat, why don't you just go up one size in diameter? Sure you will have a unique drain plug but maybe 1 in 1000 people would ever know, or notice.
Good idea.
 
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