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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I am finally done with my track build. The mods I have done have totally changed the bike and I couldn’t be happier.



- [ ] TBPARTS - 143CC BORE KIT, RACE HEAD V2, RACE CAM, INTAKE MANIFOLD KIT
- [ ] Andrew Motorsports 27.5mm Throttle Body
- [ ] TB Heavy duty clutch and springs
- [ ] Gojin Light Weight Primary Gear
- [ ] Brembo RCS14 Master Cylinder
- [ ] Brembo p34 front caliper
- [ ] Core Stainless steel brake lines front and rear
- [ ] PC5 w/custom tune
- [ ] Ohlins front fork internals
- [ ] Ohlins rear shock
- [ ] PMT Slicks
- [ ] Chimera Intake
- [ ] Ebay clutch lever
- [ ] Yoshimura RS2 exhaust
- [ ] Ebay exhaust protectors
- [ ] PSD chain adjusters
- [ ] Womet Tech axle sliders front and rear
- [ ] Womet tech Bar Ends
- [ ] R&G Aero frame sliders
- [ ] TST integrated tail light
- [ ] TST Elite-1 fender eliminator
- [ ] Carbon fiber fairing brace
- [ ] Chimera U bomb clip on adaptor
- [ ] Vortex clip ons
- [ ] G-Craft Shift Shaft Guide
- [ ] Ninja 300 injector
- [ ] Custom shift linkage

[email protected]

Also took it to the local 1/4 mile track as well. Best of 3 runs was [email protected] :laugh:
https://youtu.be/aA7PPq7EzvY
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well , you've already gotten a 1st Place trophy here on the forum for Best Build in my opinion :cool:


.
Thanks man. Its a dedicated track/race bike so I didnt feel the need or want to buy a whole bunch of mods that didnt do anything for performance or handling. Like colored bolts, side fairing, or things like that.


To answer your questions,
For the custom shift linkage, I followed Zaphs post and made it. It def helps along with the shift shaft guide.
Kawasaki Z125 Forum - View Single Post - Zaph's Kart Track Tool (build thread)

14.2 (yes rwhp) dyno is pretty good for a 143 kit with no stroker crank. I have seen one that was over 1 hp more with the same exact mods, but they were using a totally different type of dyno and mine was on a dynojet. Dynos are a tuning tool and you cant really compare numbers from different bikes on different dynos.

I am on stock gearing. I did raise the limiter 500 rpms via the PC5 and that has allowed me to get a max speed of 69mph. I have tried -1 +2, -1, and just +2 and for this setup at local track, the stock gearing seems to work best.

BTW my rear tire is a 120/80, so there is an increase in height and the speedo is corrected. Before I went with the 143kit, i had to go +2 on the rear just to get back close to the stock overall gear ratio.
 

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Looking awesome. Let me ask you about your clipons: Do they hit the tank at full lock? do they hit your knees or thighs when you turn sharply? how much did you have to raise the forks in the triples to mount them?

I was thinking of woodcrafts under the triple with 3 inch risers. I used them on my ninja 300 race bike. Either that or potentially suburban machinery bars. I would have to investigate how they would fit.
 

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If I were to put bars on my Z (or any bike with out clipons), I would put on a set of Thar Bars. They are completely adjustable so you can make them more aggressive at the track, and less so when tooling around town. If its a dedicated track bike, you can really dial in the bar position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looking awesome. Let me ask you about your clipons: Do they hit the tank at full lock? do they hit your knees or thighs when you turn sharply? how much did you have to raise the forks in the triples to mount them?

I was thinking of woodcrafts under the triple with 3 inch risers. I used them on my ninja 300 race bike. Either that or potentially suburban machinery bars. I would have to investigate how they would fit.
The angle I have my clipons, yes, they do hit the tank. I could rotate them out to not hit but I wanted an angle similar to a big bike. I could also put a 1" riser on them to avoid the contact, but I like the bars that low. I have low sided 3 times and there has not been any damage to the plastics.
As far as the forks, when I installed the Ohlins I put them back at the same location that it was from the factory. Which was flush with the triple.
 

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Oh, after taking another look at your pic, I see wht's going on. I thought your fork tubes were slid up to mount clip-ons, but those are adapters.

Years back for another bike, I made up clip-on steerin stop spacers to reduce the lock angle of bars that were hitting the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh, after taking another look at your pic, I see wht's going on. I thought your fork tubes were slid up to mount clip-ons, but those are adapters.

Years back for another bike, I made up clip-on steerin stop spacers to reduce the lock angle of bars that were hitting the tank.
Correct. this is what Im using.... https://www.steadygarage.com/store/chimera-u-bomb
 

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So you like the Chimera clip on adapter better than the Hurricane bars? I spent a couple hours fiddling with the Hurricane yesterday and never really got where I though I wanted to be. Now I think I need to order some tubing and weld up my own adapter, how hard can it be? Some 7/8 DOM and some 35MM DOM (1.375 inch is close enough).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So you like the Chimera clip on adapter better than the Hurricane bars? I spent a couple hours fiddling with the Hurricane yesterday and never really got where I though I wanted to be. Now I think I need to order some tubing and weld up my own adapter, how hard can it be? Some 7/8 DOM and some 35MM DOM (1.375 inch is close enough).
Oh yea, way better. The clip on adaptor has much more adjustability than the hurricane bars.
 

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Need to look around a little more for tubing, getting prices around $50 for two foot lengths of both sizes which is getting kind of close to a known working device that I can buy. 2 feet of each would give me the opportunity to make some mistakes and still end up with a working device at the end.
 

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Found 1 foot each of the correct size DOM tubing on ebay and bought it last night, about $35 in materials and another $25 in cheapo clip ons (already bought new grips). Going to be a DIY clip on adapter for me (unless it fails). Need to go pick up some large drill bits now, maybe a step drill. Need some tools for a repair on my car while I'm out anyway (shocks, struts, control arms, tie rods).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I thought I was done.
Just got the motor back from getting some work done.
Stroker crank, porting and polishing, 32mmtb instead of the 27.5.
Now to put the motor back on the bike and get it tuned on mr12.
I’ll report back once it’s tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looking good. It will be interesting to see your results.

You getting a dual tune for pump and MR12?
Yes sir. Got the flip switch for the pc5.
16-17 hp sure would be nice. Would be able to keep up with those pesky kx65s a little easier.
 

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I really like the PC switch mount. Looks nice, mounts on any bolt and the wires have a braided covering for protection. At first I was thinking meh it's just a switch and some wire... worth $10. But it's well built. I had one on my 300 race bike like this. Plus tuners usually give a discount for a 2nd tune done back to back.

I'm curious what you get for miles per gallon on MR12. You might actually get some good use out of a 5 gallon pail. My 300 it was just a weekend, but with a middleweight the MPG at the track will make you cry. Hahah. Maybe you'll get enough mpg that you have to be more concerned about using it up before the shelf life spoils.

Yeah those 2 stroke 65's at the track were pulling me on the straights too. Made worse by little skinny dudes riding them.
 

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WOW , Great looking build
 

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Just saw that speed spacers for the Z are out and on sale... Ugh... Amazon Prime has me spoiled with free shipping.... I've got them in my cart, ready to pull the trigger....
 
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