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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like a new clutch cable is my near future. Where can I get a clutch cable without the bend on the lever side? If that's not an option and I need/should run OEM, how do people route the cable so this doesn't happen? I've got Pro Taper ATV Mid/Seven Eights bars.

 

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Thanks for posting that crakerjac . I run both my clutch and front brake mounts just loose enough so they spin up/down on a lay-over (standard dirt bike setting) and looks like it will probably break on the first time its over flexed. I will be picking up the klx 110 cable next trip in to dealership / thanks wbrown
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Someone had mentioned that a 2013 ZX10R clutch cable will work as well. Picked one up for $13 on Amazon. I'll check back and confirm (or deny) it's fitment. If that doesn't work, I'll pick up a KLX clutch cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Level of difficulty to install? I'm not a huge fan of bleeding fresh lines, but sounds neat. Have you figured out pricing?
 

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Anyone have any more info on the KLX clutch cable? Wasn't sure if the years mattered much? I'm having a similar fitment issue due to the metal arm of the stock cable with my fatbar and moose racing handguards. I found the OEM part from the KLX and also saw some options Motion Pro offered for the KLX as well. Going to measure the length of my stock clutch cable and see what it's at as I found some offerings that were 30 in. and some that were up to 45 in.
 

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I'm trying to put a klx110l cable on mine right now and am having fitment issues as well. I've got lower bars than stock, but I can adjust both upper and lower adjustments to where there should be the most slack in the cable, but by the time I get the lever back in the perch, the cable is so tight that it is impossible to adjust to get the proper Freeplay and the clutch will not disengage properly. I can pop it in first and rev away and the bike goes no where. But side by side the cable length is almost identical other than a few mm where the oem cable has probably stretched over the 5k miles I've got on my bike. Never been this confused by a cable in my life. Lol

I think I might just try the klx110l extended clutch cable. I don't know what else to try.
 

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Bryan Krae; I think I might just try the klx110l extended clutch cable. I don't know what else to try.[/QUOTE said:
Just did complete cable search .. the "L" is the clutch model klx110L. the klx110 without the "L" has no clutch cable ...is what i' finding / is there a Extended clutch cable ?
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Of course : Its not the length of the overall cable , Its the length of actual cable Vs the housing length that makes the difference

all the klx110L clutch cables have the same part number from 2010 thru 2018 , 54011-0103 ... the ZX10R clutch cable is , 54011-0106
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thanks for posting because i'm going in for my ECU recall tomorrow and was going to order the klx cable / looks like i'll hold off till we figure this out . and will work with the service manager tomorrow to see whats available :wink2:
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Bryan ...... you could try removing the lock ring at the lever adjustment so it will screw in a little farther , it may be just enough to get it to work , and its not going to spin out all that much, if at all ? that you cant just screw it back in real quick while riding if need be... But of course get the right one later .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My ZX10R clutch cable showed up in the mail yesterday. All the fittings look right, but the cable itself appears a bit short... It will probably work since the Z is a small bike... I'll check back once I get a chance to install.
 

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how do people route the cable so this doesn't happen?
https://i.imgur.com/NXSmm2H.jpg[/quote]
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just re-routed mine yesterday , and yes at the stock location it is bound up tight at a couple of different locations so while turning its working hard at the bend area ..
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See link , if you didnt see it yet anyways / [url]http://www.z125owners.com/forum/what-did-you-do-your-kawasaki-z125-today/13513-2-rox-risers.html#post104265[/url]
 

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Was thinking of trying a Motion Pro compatible cable (part number 03-0422) says its a KLX110L cable but is 3 inches longer than stock so I would think it should work. However, I checked on another site and it reads as an overall length of just over 30 inches which is roughly what I measured the stock Z cable to be. I'm hoping without the metal arms on each end the MP part will work alright. I'll report back once I try it.
 

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looks like i'll hold off till we figure this out . and will work with the service manager tomorrow to see whats available :wink2:
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Service manager was not helpful at all .I could tell he didnt have time for such a menial request , and said they dont stock cables and no way to get dimensions required . Never going back there if i dont have too !!
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I still definitely want a straight cable and get rid of the bend at the top , I'm ok with the bend at the bottom because its not being flexed every time you turn the handlebars so i measured the stock one up and got the dimensions needed .
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Cable housing only' length is 33" / unless you need a longer overall cable .
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But the Key dimension regardless of overall cable length is checked with cable pulled tight from engine end so its pulled up tight at clutch lever end / then the cable length from engine case mount end to lip of mounting lug is 3 7/8's / see pic'

any measure the klx or the xz10r cable yet this way ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can measure the ZX10R cable when I get home. It's still in the bag and should be easy enough to do... Am I correct in assuming you are looking for the cable housing/sheeting length along with length of the actual cable?
 

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just the 3 7/8 dimension is required to see if will work .

You can have a 6 foot long housing length and it doesn't effect the function of the cable ... the housing length is just for routing convenience
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but yes on the housing length so that i can check the routing length also !
 

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looks like its 3 3/8s / that probably wont work if the cable was pulled tight and the clutch end was up against housing ?
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asking because your second pic was with the clutch end out away from housing / ? ? ?
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at 3 3/8 even with both ends adjusters screwed all the way in the clutch will probably be engaging / just like bryans cable , if you saw that post
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The 3 7/8's measurement is when the cable adjusters are set and mid adjustment points at both ends .
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And either end can be adjusted about a 1/4 " (clutch end /engine end)
so a 3 5/8's to 4 1/8th cable should work .
(yours is 3 3/8's )
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its 1" longer for routing choices but doesn't help the right CABLE Length needed
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but its close so try hooking it up off to side without routing it , it might work ?

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Cable was pulled tight in the picture with the tape measure. I only pulled it out in the other pick to show the connector on the other end. The cable extends 3 3/8 inches from the sheath, but it looks like I have close to a 1.5 inches of adjustability on the clutch side of the cable.
 

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crakerjac;104393 I have close to a 1.5 inches of adjustability on the clutch side of the cable.[/QUOTE said:
I didn't notice that ! ... It should work / Keep us posted
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this is one long thread for just a cable :surprise:
 
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