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Discussion Starter #1
So i was looking at removing my airbox, and saw the carbon/charcoal canister and solenoid. I unplugged the solenoid for a slit second and threw a code instantly. Anyone know how to check the code, or delete it?
 

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Z125 might use same codes as other Kawis. Here's info for the 650R.
(you can check the Kawiforums for deleting codes)

How to read your FI Light

The DFI used on the 650R features a FI light on the Speedometer face. This light has three
modes of operation; User Mode, Diagnostic Mode 1, Diagnostic Mode 2.
USER MODE
At KEY ON the ECU completes a self test and then checks sensors and actuators. During this
time the FI light will be lit. While the FI light is ON you will hear the fuel pump run and the
sub-throttle servos move. The tachometer needle swings full scale and back. At the end of
the testing (about 3 seconds), the oil pressure light will come on indicating a normal KEY ON,
ENGINE OFF event.
If the ECU detects any actuator feedback or sensor input OUT OF RANGE, the FI light will be
set ON. It should be noted that the FI light can be set to a false ON state by radio
interference, though in practice it would take a very strong local signal to do so. The ECU
continues to monitor all sensors as long as the key is ON. If any signal is detected as OUT OF
RANGE, the FI light is set ON. The FI light will remain lit as long as the defect is present.
One of two things will happen when the FI light is ON; either the ECU will go into LIMP mode
or the ECU will prevent fuel injection, ignition, and/or starter circuit operation until the fault is
cleared. The severity of the fault will determine which of the two will happen. For instance, if
the ECU cannot detect crank position, it will prevent engine operation altogether. On the
other hand, if the ECU cannot determine Intake Air Temperature, it will initiate LIMP mode
(Kawasaki calls it FAIL-SAFE mode), assume an IAT temperature of 40C (104F), and allow the
engine to operate at that parameter.
The FI light will go OFF after repair or if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The
ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.
The FI light will blink continuously to indicate the vehicle-down sensor is active. When
detected, the ECU will shut-off the fuel pump, fuel injectors, starter and ignition. The FI light
will remain flashing and the motorcycle will not start until the vehicle-down sensor goes
inactive and the ECU is reset by cycling the key OFF.
ON at KEY ON, then OFF
OFF = normal operation
ON = fault detected
BLINK = vehicle down
DIAGNOSTIC MODE 1
Under the seat, along the right sub-frame rail is an orange/black wire with a bullet connector.
This is the self-diagnosis terminal. In order to read out the CURRENT Service Codes, ground
that wire with the KEY ON. The FI light will begin to flash codes. There will be a 5 second
delay and then the codes begin. The first flash is always a LONG (1 sec) followed by either
LONG or SHORT (0.5 sec) flashes. LONG flashes indicate TENS and short flashes ONES. One
LONG followed by two SHORT = 12. Two LONG, one SHORT = 21. Three LONG, two short =
32, etc. There is an interval of 1.5 seconds between TENS and ONES. There is a 3 second
interval between codes.
A – Shorting Wire
B - Orange/Black Wire with a Bullet Connector
C – Battery Negative Terminal
NOTES

For multiple codes, the codes will readout from lowest numerical value to highest. A low
battery will cause the light to flash slowly or not at all.
DIAGNOSTIC MODE 2
To recover codes set in memory; KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground
more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain grounded (after 5 groundings) for
the remainder of the diagnostic session. The codes will readout exactly as in MODE 1.
CODE Malfunction
11_______ Main throttle sensor
12_______ Inlet air pressure sensor
13_______ Inlet air temperature sensor
14_______ Water temperature sensor
21_______ Crankshaft sensor
24 & 25___Speed sensor (24 then 25, repeatedly)
31_______Vehicle-down sensor
32_______Subthrottle sensor
33_______Oxygen sensor inactive (Europe)
51_______Ignition Coil #1
52_______Ignition Coil #2
56_______Radiator Fan Relay
62_______Subthrottle valve actuator (sensor in range but not responding)
64_______Air switching valve
67_______Oxygen sensor heater (Europe)
94_______Oxygen sensor out-of-range
To clear codes from the ECU, enter MODE 2, pull the clutch in for more than 5 seconds.
Things the ECU cannot detect:
FI light
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Relay
DFI Main Relay
ECU Power and Ground
Fuel Injectors
 

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You might try this. It works on other Kawis.


The next time you start the bike, and the fault code comes on, push the AB button, and hold it. That is the button you use to go from trip to clock, mpg, etc. It will reset the code, and make it go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bullet connector is on the left frame rail. I did short it out to the battery and i apperar to be getting 3 long flashes and 10 short flashes. which makes no sense at all. here is a video https://youtu.be/r78aCEzujOM Clearing the codes by pulling the clutch for 5 seconds doesn't work, nor can i tell if i'm truly getting into dealer mode 2. The A+B button reset doesn't work either. The bike also doesn't appear to be down on power.
 

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The bullet connector is on the left frame rail. I did short it out to the battery and i apperar to be getting 3 long flashes and 10 short flashes. which makes no sense at all. here is a video https://youtu.be/r78aCEzujOM Clearing the codes by pulling the clutch for 5 seconds doesn't work, nor can i tell if i'm truly getting into dealer mode 2. The A+B button reset doesn't work either. The bike also doesn't appear to be down on power.
Any update? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just called the dealer and they are contacting kawi about the code I'm pulling. Should have an update shortly
 

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If all you did was unplug the solenoid and then plug it right back together Then the ECU has merely logged a fault it observed with that component. The bike won't run any differently and within 3 drive cycles the code will clear itself now that the ECU sees the sensor is connected and functioning properly. So until you figure out the correct procedure to manually clear the code just ride the bike normally and within about 100 miles the light will go off on it's own. It's just the ECU doing it's job telling you something was briefly not functioning as expected.
 
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