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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used 2018 and the front light had been replaced by a column of 4 small LED lights held together by chromoly brackets. And the wiring was rigged a certain way to do not run one of the LEDs on the constant hot. I rewired the other 3 to turn on with the high beam switch. I went out for a ride and the HUD display would shut off and the bike would run but wouldn’t get any gas I’m assuming due to the fuel injection not working without electricity. I know it’s shorting somewhere but I can’t pinpoint where the shirt is happening or what I should do to fix it. I bought this bike for 2,500 off of a nice middle age couple selling the bike for their son. They claimed the bike never had any issues. And now I am not even able to enjoy it because it doesn’t work correctly. What do I do?
 

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I think we might need more info. Maybe the lights are drawing too much power? Maybe disconnect the lights and run it at home and see what happens.

So the running lights is one led and high beam is all 4?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think we might need more info. Maybe the lights are drawing too much power? Maybe disconnect the lights and run it at home and see what happens.

So the running lights is one led and high beam is all 4?
Yes but that wasn’t the problem. The battery was zip tied to the leads on the battery and was losing connection. The previous owner claimed that all he needed was the correct size bolts. One of the leads is SMASHED. I received no bill of sale saying as is. I was mislead from the beginning and very disappointed.
 

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Ugh.... Zip ties to connect the batteries. Ive never seen that before. I would get the little bolts ASAP. What do you mean smashed? Can you take picture?

Also high beam button did nothing before till you set it up? It was only one light working?

What are the yellow cables for? Whats with the plugs on the left going up? Are those soldered to the yellow cables?

Whats the cable that wraps around the seat lock?

Are there other mods on the bike?

Also if youve got the patience there should be wiring diagrams in the service manaul that might help you - https://kawasakibrad.com/manuals
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bought a used 2018 and the front light had been replaced by a column of 4 small LED lights held together by chromoly brackets. And the wiring was rigged a certain way to do not run one of the LEDs on the constant hot. I rewired the other 3 to turn on with the high beam switch. I went out for a ride and the HUD display would shut off and the bike would run but wouldn’t get any gas I’m assuming due to the fuel injection not working without electricity. I know it’s shorting somewhere but I can’t pinpoint where the shirt is happening or what I should do to fix it. I bought this bike for 2,500 off of a nice middle age couple selling the bike for their son. They claimed the bike never had any issues. And now I am not even able to enjoy it because it doesn’t work correctly. What do I do?
Ugh.... Zip ties to connect the batteries. Ive never seen that before. I would get the little bolts ASAP. What do you mean smashed? Can you take picture?

Also high beam button did nothing before till you set it up? It was only one light working?

What are the yellow cables for? Whats with the plugs on the left going up? Are those soldered to the yellow cables?

Whats the cable that wraps around the seat lock?

Are there other mods on the bike?

Also if youve got the patience there should be wiring diagrams in the service manaul that might help you - https://kawasakibrad.com/manuals
I ordered some bolts for the battery. the yellow wires are for the aftermarket tail light that has blinkers built in that don’t blink I don’t think the brake light even works properly. The tail lights need a resistor installed to work correctly which would require me to splice more wires to correct. That is correct. The high beams were not hooked up but I figured out how to wire them to make the switch work correctly to turn them all on but the lights are not the issue here. The little red and black wires go to the plate lights. The cut wires that were connected to. The yellows are for the blinkers and brake light.
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If the problem is electric and you cant get lights to work properly then there might be a correlation. The smashed battery terminal can be fixed with a new battery.

I am curious does your headlight stay on when the key is off?

I want to defer to @Kaw'ee to see what he thinks. I do think you should follow the wiring diagram and make sure all the cables are done properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the problem is electric and you cant get lights to work properly then there might be a correlation. The smashed battery terminal can be fixed with a new battery.

I am curious does your headlight stay on when the key is off?

I want to defer to @Kaw'ee to see what he thinks. I do think you should follow the wiring diagram and make sure all the cables are done properly.
No the lights turn on when the key is turned on only. And highs work when the bike is running but the battery and tail light issue is a problem. I am not happy that I have to buy a new battery but I guess I have to do what I have to do even though I made a mistake buying a bike with so many problems.
 

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I've been following but still wasn't sure what the real issue and question was.

Battery, Buy new one. The new nuts are not going to fit under the post and you could hack something up but It looks like it got hot from a bad connection (not smashed) so could end up with same issue again. And why the meter shut down while riding (not a wiring short but a battery cable shorting out trying to get good contact)

Sounds like you have NO SEPERATE tail lights and only a integrated single tail light.
The yellow wires should only be tied into the green wires from the turn signal wires (black/yellow stripe are ground wires)
The black/red stripe wires you say are the license plate light so only need one wire for (red-power)(black-ground)
Not sure where your wires are going to so watch this video and come back with any questions you still have
 

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I am not the most knowledgeable electric guy out there but a battery short comes from battery overheating?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've been following but still wasn't sure what the real issue and question was.

Battery, Buy new one. The new nuts are not going to fit under the post and you could hack something up but It looks like it got hot from a bad connection (not smashed) so could end up with same issue again. And why the meter shut down while riding (not a wiring short but a battery short)

Sounds like you have NO SEPERATE tail lights and only a integrated single tail light.
The yellow wires should only be tied into the green wires from the turn signal wires (black/yellow stripe are ground wires)
The black/red stripe wires you say are the license plate light so only need one wire for (red-power)(black-ground)
Not sure where your wires are going to so watch this video and come back with any questions you still have
I’ve never seen a terminal melted like that before. And if it got that hot it would have definitely melted the zip ties and they were fine so I looks like it was dropped. The yellow wires were connected to the green wires and apparently need a resistor to blink properly and that will get hot so I’m not sure how much I trust something like that. The brake light was not activating with the brake it stayed on constantly. The main issue here that they said everything on the bike worked fine but now I have a project bike that cost me 2,500
 

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One look under the seat and it would have been wise to walk away. There are some used wiring harnesses on ebay, might be best to get one and go back to stock as a starting point. Looks to be a few problems that you can see and likely more that you can't. Sucks to throw more money at it but unless you are a wiz with electrical you might fix one thing to find a problem somewhere else. I wouldn't trust anything done by some one that would use zip-ties like that. The terminals were loose and would generate heat but that didn't damage the battery post.

Good luck
 

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I’ve never seen a terminal melted like that before. And if it got that hot it would have definitely melted the zip ties and they were fine
Use any search engine you want and you will see its a very common issue with loose cables.
And was thinking the seller had the loose cable issue when it melted, and then he put the zip ties on after because the post got hot and was distorted not to use the regular bolts. Or also could be from being dropped
I Don't see any real problems like you've stated now except new battery, And test for right wires going to the right place... And you figuring out the headlight sounds like you know what's up,
So good luck (y)

Bat01_zpsae8b8d28.jpg images.jpg kLUNOt5.jpg IMG_1818.JPG
 

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all private sales are "as is".

Sounds like you got hosed, but fortunately, not all that bad.

Batteries are cheap, like really cheap, buy a new one.(found several 4LBS batteries under $30)

The rest of the wiring you seem to have sorted out with the exception of the turn signals.

As for the turn signal load balancing resistor, they do generate a little heat, but not enough to be dangerous.
It just provides enough load on the LED circuit to make the flasher think there is still a standard bulb on the line. Perfectly safe.
 

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Personally I would start fresh, pull the harness, check for busted/ damaged wires repair and check eBay for factory style lights. Install those light and test functionality. If all works as it should keep that. Or search for part numbers on your aftermarket parts, check for install videos, and see if you can find where he botched the install.
just my two sense 🤷🏼‍♂️ IMO I’d just found out the aftermarket parts and search for install videos
 

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I ordered some bolts for the battery. the yellow wires are for the aftermarket tail light that has blinkers built in that don’t blink I don’t think the brake light even works properly. The tail lights need a resistor installed to work correctly which would require me to splice more wires to correct. That is correct. The high beams were not hooked up but I figured out how to wire them to make the switch work correctly to turn them all on but the lights are not the issue here. The little red and black wires go to the plate lights. The cut wires that were connected to. The yellows are for the blinkers and brake light. View attachment 26593 View attachment 26594 I View attachment 26595
Id get rid of all those quick snap style electrical connectors too. Those are garbage. I’d install some blade style connectors. Loose connections can also simulate a fault. And if In series a open circuit can also take out other components.
 
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