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I actually just came here to ask if anyone was using the aracer ECU and ask about the experience. So let me know what you think. What got better? Worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, I'll try t make it short..
2019 model...immediately swapped exhaust to Yoshi RS-2. Ran fine. 1 week later, installed aRacer ECU with preloaded map (stock description), a hotter coil and Chimera intake. Ran better, very throaty..definite change on the top end...all ECU settings still 'stock'...except for refining idle speed and RPM limit to 11k, hadn't changed any settings, all at 100%. Then, installed DCR cam...and it ran like, I dunno...weak. So, started researching and checking out videos with similar mods. All of them basically said to increase fuel base percentage and to lower the target AFR a bit (down to 12.9 - 13.1 from 13.3). So after messing with it...increased base to 106.25%, same with Acceleration 106.25% and in the fuel chart I increased everything 102.1% across the board, except for the 0% throttle column...left 100%. Increased timing +2 degrees across the board. Did I mention I made all the changes from my phone? Runs great, lots of low-end...pulls out of turns and I can bounce 2nd gear wheelies. All the values listed are what was settled on after incremental changes, I tested even higher settings and then went back to a lesser value. What is "testing"? Running the bike thru the gears around my neighborhood and a long stretch close-by (roll-ons) several times over and over and deciding what was good by seat-of-the-pants feel. Enough power I felt confident to up the front sprocket to 15T...which corrected the speedo, has 60MPH top speed and still can pull a reasonable hill, without losing reasonable RPM...it is a 125 after all.

The aRacer gives you control of the fuel /ignition system like no other (on your phone!), is very user friendly...advice: save your maps! I am not running an AF1 (auto-tuner) or wideband o2 sensor...I'm just learning the thing old-skool.

Comments? Questions?
 

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I’m new to this whole tuning and afr thing, so hoping you’ll bear with me. You say you decreased target afr to about 13 and increased fueling to 106.25%. Is that just the same as setting the afr to 12.25 since 13/1.06 is about 12.25? If I’ve got that right, why not just set the afr rather than changing both that and altering the fuel base as well?
 

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I’m new to this whole tuning and afr thing, so hoping you’ll bear with me. You say you decreased target afr to about 13 and increased fueling to 106.25%. Is that just the same as setting the afr to 12.25 since 13/1.06 is about 12.25? If I’ve got that right, why not just set the afr rather than changing both that and altering the fuel base as well?
As mentioned, changing the AFR isn't going to do anything without a wideband and an 'autotune'.

Bumping fueling to 106.25% just means that at that point the ECU is adding 6.25% more fuel than it was previously...what that doesn't mean is a 6.25% change in AFR. Without something to monitor it with you have no idea what it's done to the AFR outside of making it more rich (lowering the AFR).
 

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Bumping fueling to 106.25% just means that at that point the ECU is adding 6.25% more fuel than it was previously...what that doesn't mean is a 6.25% change in AFR. Without something to monitor it with you have no idea what it's done to the AFR outside of making it more rich (lowering the AFR).
Yeah, that's why I suggested that a 6.25% fuel increase should lower AFR from the target of 13 to 12.25. So, assuming you had the ability to hit a target using an autotuner, then adding a fueling multiplier seems weird because it's no different than just setting a different target.
 
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