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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Bazzaz fuel controller, MNNTHBX MTake and a Brock's Alien head exhaust. My Z125 will only hit 64 mph, and that's downhill with a tail wind. Stock Z125s do this. With the mods, the bike should pull to redline easily in 4th gear (stock gearing). I have tried different Bazzaz maps and no change is noticed. Now I am lead to believe that there is a restriction somewhere. The bike has been on a Dyno and get 10.12 hp. The bike pulls hard up to 50 mph then peters out. I am thinking maybe the filter internals are collapsing at high RPM. Any ideas or thoughts?
 

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I am thinking she isn't going to do much more than that with those mods. It might get there a skosh quicker but I don't think you are going to see much top end gain. YMMV.
 

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I have a Bazzaz fuel controller, MNNTHBX MTake and a Brock's Alien head exhaust. My Z125 will only hit 64 mph, and that's downhill with a tail wind. Stock Z125s do this. With the mods, the bike should pull to redline easily in 4th gear (stock gearing). I have tried different Bazzaz maps and no change is noticed. Now I am lead to believe that there is a restriction somewhere. The bike has been on a Dyno and get 10.12 hp. The bike pulls hard up to 50 mph then peters out. I am thinking maybe the filter internals are collapsing at high RPM. Any ideas or thoughts?
Its a camshaft issue not enough lift and duration. I have a bore kit and a ported head with the dcr cam and it pulls hard up to about 7500 then it dips off. Only reason its not very noticeable on a stock bike is because its such a turd.
 

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All this work for little improvement. the one thing that NO ONE ever mentions is valve clearance. YES it is important. check it as per book and set it to the max setting. this will ensure that the valve is on the seat when hot. Yes I did check mine after 200klms an low and behold they were tight. so I opened them up to .003th on the inlet and .005th on the exhaust. The other thing that you don't mention is what the air fuel ratio is. to check you need a wide band air /fuel ratio meter. stock computer at idle and part throttle will be at 14.7:1 and at WOT is should be no more than 12.5 :1. if you change fuel maps and nothing alters check fuel pump flow /performance/ pressure. Once you start to modify anything,everything is effected. Yarraboy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All this work for little improvement. the one thing that NO ONE ever mentions is valve clearance. YES it is important. check it as per book and set it to the max setting. this will ensure that the valve is on the seat when hot. Yes I did check mine after 200klms an low and behold they were tight. so I opened them up to .003th on the inlet and .005th on the exhaust. The other thing that you don't mention is what the air fuel ratio is. to check you need a wide band air /fuel ratio meter. stock computer at idle and part throttle will be at 14.7:1 and at WOT is should be no more than 12.5 :1. if you change fuel maps and nothing alters check fuel pump flow /performance/ pressure. Once you start to modify anything,everything is effected. Yarraboy.
The are fuel ratio is slightly over 13.0 for the entire dyno curve. Stock was 14.1.
 

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the mnnthbx map for the bazzaz
the air fuel ratio was around 12.4 I think as I have a wideband and tested it
I had posted the exact number somewhere on this site

I use the auto tuner on the bazzaz and have been slowly making maps
the auto tuner seems to only program at 13.0 I have not found a way to change that
I have not verified what my bike runs at using my wideband yet but will try to soon


now I have not noticed any changes in performance from the mnnthbx map
but I have been able to take out almost all the popping on the exhaust because it was too lean in areas of the map
the popping got really annoying


I did post one of my maps on bazzaz's website using the auto tuner

and have been making a couple more
im trying to get hot weather, normal weather and cold weather maps (for san diego weather) to see what I can do

usually colder weather my bike had run a little slower, but also not sure if it was a lot winder those days

so I figured might as well play with the auto tuner and see what changes it makes during those temp changes

if you didnt know, there is a plug on the bazzaz its white with a brown loop
unplug it and thats map#2

so I can have programmed 2 maps at any time, go under the seat and unplug that connector


if you want any maps I've been making pm me and I will see if there is a way I can email it and you can just run my map on #2
and keep whatever map you have now on #1
 

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when I had changed my cam I found out my feeler gauges the smallest set I had was the largest spec size for the intake
I didnt like that because there is a chance when setting I could of been slightly to large
so I had used that setting until I got a new set of gauges in

now I have both intake and exhaust in the middle of spec
still runs exactly the same, but at least the intake now is set better then before gives me some play both ways



All this work for little improvement. the one thing that NO ONE ever mentions is valve clearance. YES it is important. check it as per book and set it to the max setting. this will ensure that the valve is on the seat when hot. Yes I did check mine after 200klms an low and behold they were tight. so I opened them up to .003th on the inlet and .005th on the exhaust. The other thing that you don't mention is what the air fuel ratio is. to check you need a wide band air /fuel ratio meter. stock computer at idle and part throttle will be at 14.7:1 and at WOT is should be no more than 12.5 :1. if you change fuel maps and nothing alters check fuel pump flow /performance/ pressure. Once you start to modify anything,everything is effected. Yarraboy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
if you didnt know, there is a plug on the bazzaz its white with a brown loop
unplug it and thats map#2

so I can have programmed 2 maps at any time, go under the seat and unplug that connector


if you want any maps I've been making pm me and I will see if there is a way I can email it and you can just run my map on #2
and keep whatever map you have now on #1
I didn't know that, good info.
 

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I didn't know that, good info.
bazzaz also sells an $80 handlebar button that handles 2 maps too
but I figure I can just disconnect that plug under the seat and save myself $80

and I think for $150 they sell a 10 map button
but I think for what I use my bike for I won't ever have that many maps programmed




I did just go out and go pro my wide band with whatever map im using right now

looks like it tries its best to stay around 13 through entire speed range

but at max speed it drops a touch richer like 12.5 or 12.7 don't remember it was too hard to see the gauge
tried to angle it so the camera could pick it up better


will post the video once I put it on you tube
 

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hi all, the afr of 14.1:1 is probably wrong because the reading can change along the length of the pipe,thats why the sensor is close to the exhaust port & not on the tailpipe. If you indend to fit a wide band afr meter fit it within 100 mm of the exhaust port this keeps the sensor hot and the gasses are moving fast so you get fast response from the ecu to the afr. cheers.
 
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