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Discussion Starter #1
After several months of searching for a cheap low mileage ninja 300 I finally have a donor bike!!!!! I can't wait to rip this perfectly good ninja 300 apart and start on this project. Unfortunately I have to leave town for a few days but as soon as I return I will post updates of the tear down. Anyone want to buy a 2014 ninja 300 with no engine, wire harness, or brake calipers? let me know....even have a clean title! I also still need to find a new home for the current Z155 stroker engine in the pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry guys have not had time to work on this project much. I did weld up a bracket to hold the 300 front tire and it't now on the table ready to be torn apart as seen in the pics. I should have more time soon to start working on it.

I also made a quick video on the stroker engine I currently have in the z125 just in case anyone wants to see the difference in performace from a stock engine. Here is the link: https://youtu.be/-GiGTyqV5O4
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was able to get away work for a couple hours today and start breaking down the 300. So far this is all I got. Next week should be much more productive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's a great question. Many people have PMed and asked this question. I'm not an expert on this, but I'll explain what I do know. If anyone else has more info please feel free to correct me. Also the Bazzaz website is a good source for info.

This bike has both the Bazzaz fuel controller (BAZZAZ Z-fi) AND the Bazzaz Z-AFM auto tune. These are two different modules that work together. The Bazzaz Z-AFM plugs directly into the Z-fi and uses a Bosch wide band O2 sensor in place of the factory O2 sensor. This is why you must weld in a larger bung into your exhaust when using this setup. Because you unplug the factory sensor and no longer use it, it throws the check engine light on the factory computer. The Bazzaz Z-fi is over riding the factory computer to control the engine, that's why each item you unplug to install it, such as the fuel injector nozzle for example, the bazzaz computer has control over how long it stays open or closed no matter what the factory computer is telling it to do.

You don't need the Z-AFM for the bike to run, it just makes it much easier to determine what the suggested air fuel ratios should be for the bike, especially for someone who has little to no experience tuning. When I finished installing all the upgrades to this engine I ran the bike on the learn settings for about 20 min. It ran like crap! During this time you run at all different RPMs in each gear. Once your done you come home and plug in the laptop and it tells you what the computer thinks you should set your map at. You simply click ok and save it. From that moment on I went to test ride again and it was amazing. It was smooth in all throttle ranges and I have never messed with it again.

I have a little over $2000 in receipts just in all the parts for this setup. (stroker kit, exhaust, intake, heavy duty clutch, lightened primary gear, Bazzaz stuff, etc) Stock engines are selling on ebay for 1000-1500. I am asking $1500 for the complete setup plus shipping. This engine still has very low miles on it and will be a plug and play for anyone who wants it. This is less than half what it would cost anyone to do this. It's a pretty simple swap, much less work that splitting a case to install a crankshaft. When I pull this engine out next week I'll make a video on how to do it step by step. Hope this helps guys.
 

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I know you used the Z-AFM O2 sensor, but did you leave the the Bazzaz O2 stabilizer inline for the stock 02 sensor plugged in just zipped out of the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No the instructions said to remove the factory O2 sensor and leave the plug open. I never received a stabilizer to plug into the connection. Maybe if it had one it would clear the light. Not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your right...I had to tape my phone to the handle bars to make it. I just wanted something to at least show it run before I pulled it out. It's def worth doing though, the factory engine in this thing is not even enough to keep up with traffic most of the time, at least here a mile above sea level. If I was to keep this setup I would re gear it to help lower the rpm when just riding around between 45-50mph, plus it would give a little more to the top speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Had some time to tear apart the 300 a little more this morning. I have everything I need off the bike now. The engine was pretty easy to get out, the complete wire harness took a little longer. The radiator, fan and cooling stuff all came out on one bracket that bolts to the frame, so I am going to try and incorporate all that on the Z. The lines you see drawn on the side of the engine are to ensure I install in at the proper angle in the Z. Hopefully next week I'll get the engine out of the Z and take a side by side picture on the bench, then I will see just how much work I will have in the weeks to come to get this thing to fit properly. I'm a little scared.....
 

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No the instructions said to remove the factory O2 sensor and leave the plug open. I never received a stabilizer to plug into the connection. Maybe if it had one it would clear the light. Not sure.
Well mine was down a little over a week waiting on an exhaust gasket. My CEL came on also with the first ride, so no the inline stabilizer does not clear the CEL with the Z AFM.
 
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