Actual Suspension Travel - Page 2 - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 01:23 PM
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Don't need to buy the blocks, some scrap wood and a hand saw will normally do the job. I've done it with a strap wrench too: Fork lower replacement

I'll get to this on the Z eventually, though I may just swap to Ohlins internals because the rules allow internal mods as long as the external male/female sliders are used. Wish they allowed me to do something with the shock too.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 11:11 AM
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Have any of you guys thought of or tried just adding a heavier weight fork oil? Mnnthbx has a YouTube video on adding 15 weight fork oil and also putting 20 extra cc's in for an inexpensive fork upgrade. I think I'm going to do this but I'm going to add 10 weight instead of 15 to not overdo it. It was suggested for riders over 200 lb. I'm 180 so I figured 10 would be good. I believe stock weight is 5...
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 04:57 PM
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I did that on my KAYO to make the front forks "decent", used 20 weight oil. Planning on doing something similar to the Z when I can get around to it.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Plan B'

Pulled my forks today and the coupler idea will not load the spring like i was thinking... It would only raise the top triple clamps and bars
.
But with them apart another Mod looked interesting ... So I tried It
.
I just flipped the bottoming stop and used a lock washer and standard washer to take the place of the OEM lock collar which lifted the bottoming stop . now instead of the circle clip doing the bottoming , the top cap does It . should be stronger than the circle clip !
I put the OEM circle clip back on so the bottoming stop dosent drop to far, but it wants to stay up top by itself anyways, The top 4 crimps is what keeps it from dropping the stock set up way

And It gave me 1" more of travel so instead of 3" there's 4" of actual compression travel
Plus the 1" top out counting the OEM way so 5" travel
without using up the Sag 1" or making the OEM spring any stiffer like the coupler idea
I still dont think the spring is going to coil bind with all the gap it has and length .

I can not bottom the forks by hand now on the bike !!!
I could barely do it with one fork off the bike , even then i could only get one of them to completely bottom at that
Everything felt good and normal .

Will take it out and hammer it hard and take it back apart and see whats / whats

If all looks good I'll might try 10wt oil and even a bottom 1" spacer under the springs.
.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post
Yes there are some Pre load spacers available now (pic), but they only give a 1/2" max difference / not sure thats even worth it ? And there 69.00 dollars
.
"I've seen reply's saying they really didn't notice it."
I wanted to pull the tubes apart before i could confirm that "Pre load spacers available now (pic), "

They do nothing but raise your triple clamps and bars up 1/2"
A slight Trail n Rake change at best is all they do on our bikes
They are not Pre-Load adjusters that work for our type of forks

If Anyone thinks they do work, I would like to know what i'm missing by some one that has actually had our Z125 forks apart a detailed explanation on how they add Pre-Load ?

Doing Fork Seals now and you do not have to take off the bottom lower axle supports from the Tubes
So its a very easy and quick job
Basically do the raised bottoming stop procedure and pull the dust seal,hex spring and snap/pull the forks apart
Will do a How-To post when I'm all done
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 04:48 PM
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What are you going to put in, 15wt or 20wt oil? I like the Lucas products which go all the way down to 2.5wt in synthetic oil (forks to shocks).

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I barley bottomed out as is. maybe once or twice a ride which is perfect for off road
But I have learned the limits of the stock suspension and ride accordingly

With the added 1 1/4" travel now (1/4" another mod) I'm starting at the stock 10wt and 185ml then graduate up till I get to the max limit i want to ride a bike with 12" wheels
If the static and rider Sag are close and no spacers or different springs are required then ...
Graduate order ... 15wt/185ml ... 20wt/185ml... 15wt/200ml ... 20wt/200ml

Dont know how street bikes are set up, but off road if you dont "Lightly" bottom out your shocks once or twice a ride then your not using all your travel and putting up with a harsh ride for no reason

Some will set theres up stiff for the OMG BIG ONE !!! but I dont put up with a stiff/harsh ride for 364 days a year for that one maybe OMG BIG ONE when i have a 50/50 chance of surviving it anyways
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post
Dont know how street bikes are set up, but off road if you dont "Lightly" bottom out your shocks once or twice a ride then your not using all your travel and putting up with a harsh ride for no reason.
In my trail riding days the only time I would bottom out was if I miffed a log crossing and didn't get the front wheel high enough. Apparently I was set-up too stiff up front by your standards. Never bugged me much but getting on a heavier rider's bike always felt like I couldn't get any power down. I'm sure they were equally annoyed by bottoming out my rear end constantly.

Joined the motoX guys at the quarry for some big boy jumps once. Checked "pretend to be a motoX racer" off my bucket list and never looked back, ugh.

Dropped a gear... ...still here
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