Moly Oil Question - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Moly Oil Question

Hey Z fam,

Throughout the factory service manual Kawasaki calls out the application of MO during assembly steps.

MO: Molybdenum disulfide oil solution
(Mixture of engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a 10:1 ratio by weight)

Ok... so what's the problem?

You can get a huge range of moly greases (based on percentage molybdenum disulfide to grease carrier.) So am I supposed to use a 3% moly grease or closer to 80% to make this oil solution?

I know, I know, I'm over thinking it. But it seems dumb to weigh out my oil/grease solution with this vital piece of info missing. Might as well eyeball it at that point. (which is likely what I will end up doing...)

I'm guessing that Kawi is thinking of a high percentage moly grease due to the 10:1 dilution factor. But that's just a guess... does anyone actually know?

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Ando

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 02:31 PM
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I've had this conversation quite a few times with the service guys. The consensus is that Kawi wants something with a higher surface adhesion and tension than oil but lower viscosity than grease. Somewhere along the way they forgot to source and brand their own "assembly lube" so now they want us to play chemist by mixing two of their own branded products. Kawi is not the only one who does this.

Been using the Permatex stuff forever and have never ever experienced anything like the "dry starts" after a rebuild (I did see what happens when you use oil alone and it's not pretty). I think it's the dry start after assembly that Kawi is worried about in the first place.

My 2c: substitute with a high quality assembly lube. Dyed stuff is easier cause you can tell where it is and isn't.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawasaki Brad View Post
The consensus is that Kawi wants something with a higher surface adhesion and tension than oil but lower viscosity than grease.
Which is precisely why I don't feel bad mixing mine as a SWAG, it just needs to land somewhere between the two lube types.

I like the assembly lube suggestion as well, seems like a good thing to have in the garage anyway. Thanks!

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 03:42 PM
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Do I smell a BBK in the near future? Riding weather has turned to ****... now's the time for a build!


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Hah, I wish! Partially dreaming, but mostly being a perfectionist with my new primary gear lobot so graciously gifted me.

We're planning a last minute trip to London, we'll see what's left in the bank after that. =P

My issue with a BBK is that I know I won't be able to half ass it and I'm also not willing to double my investment in the Z. =[

On the bright side, looks like the US is getting the new MT-03, so that could be cool.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 09:04 PM
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I agree with Kawi Brad's assessment and I think this is a bit of "copy & paste" from other Kawi Service manuals, particularly for engines with plain bearings where you should not use straight motor oil during assembly. However, the little Z125 motor has no plain(babbitt type) bearings so regular motor oil is perfectly fine for pre-lubing all the ball bearings inside. Moly-oil is a bit of overkill and too much Moly can foul your clutch plates. The Permatex assembly lube is even better due to it's higher viscosity and "tackiness". It won't drain off as quickly as motor oil. If you really want to whip up a batch of super Moly-oil, go right ahead...
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-04-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobot View Post
If you really want to whip up a batch of super Moly-oil, go right ahead...
Yeah, didn't feel like going to the shop again to get assembly lube for the primary so I made my own M-O. As I was cleaning up I noted that my mixture was pretty much the same viscosity and color (and sulfur smell) as the application from the factory.

Fouling the clutch occurred to me, but I was pretty sparing with my application so I should be OK. If it dies the most annoying part of the process is gaining access.

FWIW the clutch basket does appear to use a plain bearing. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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