My take on a custom intake...
So i watched all the videos and read the threads on the DIY intake and decided to do my own take on an intake. As I am an engineer I tend to over engineer stuff because i don’t want it to come apart or screw up because when they do it tends to be somewhere like the top of a mountain 2hrs from a way to get it home. So this is probably way more than you need but it should work and never come apart. i also wanted it to sit under the cowling a bit more.
Basically the steps are the same as the other DIY’s using the stock intake tube with a minor adjustment. I’ve seen people zip tie the stock filter around the end of the tube, that was a no go for me. I’ve seen others squeeze a filter into the end but with no rigidity to clamp to this also was a no go.
So I picked up a couple of UNI PK22 filters (1” 1/4 I believe the opening is). I needed two since i was doing both bikes.
I stopped by the hardware store and picked up 2 1” PVC connectors.
Picked up two hose clamps that go to 1 3/4”
I wanted to make sure the filter had no chance of coming loose or falling off. I believe this way that will never happen, if it does I have bigger issues to worry about.
The install steps are essentially the same the difference is using the 1” PVC connectors and the UNI filters. I actually PVC glued the filters to the PVC so they won’t ever be coming off. Since they are washable and the other end is on a hose clamp they can be removed easily for cleaning. The PVC fits perfectly deep into the intake tube so I felt good about that. The glue was a an extra measure because the filter was covered in oil and the flange is very small so it kept sliding off the end when I tried to hose clamp it. PVC glue, two minutes to dry and its now permanent.
I chose those filters because they have a bit of a spring inside them to keep there shape this allows me to tuck them under the fairing when you put it back on and it rest nicely on the inside of the fairing tucked way up in the bike. I zip tied them around the frame and the stock tube to keep them up tight under the gas tank and out of the way.
I also relocated the horn because it just looked silly hanging out in the middle of nothing. You can remove the L part of the bracket and rebolt the horn to the the old mount point for the air box on the clutch side of the bike and turn it 90’. Now it too is tucked up under the fairing and echo’s pretty loud in the air.
The benefit (I believe) to using the stock inlet tube is two fold:
1. It’s made of rubber so it’s flexible and it soaks up the intake sounds. I’ve heard videos of the Chimera with the metal tube and that thing is just a huge amplifier for the intake sounds. The stock tube with these filters is barely more audible vs the stock air box. With Exhaust it’s almost unnoticeable just a bit more growl when you get it on it.
2. The shape of it. It starts wide and narrows down to speed up the air going into the throttle body, not sure if the other ones do that but Kawi designed it this way for a reason so I stuck with it.
Total cost: about $25 per bike: $22.50 for the air filters and $.70 for the PVC connector and $1 for the hose clamp.
On a separate note has anyone removed the silver heat shields after removing the air box? They look kinda silly but they may be needed to deflect the engine heat off the throttle body, however with the air box gone and all the air that now goes through there are they really still needed?
Last edited by Phantomx2k; 12-21-2018 at 10:04 PM.