Check engine light issue solved - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Check engine light issue solved

Thought I would give a quick update on my engine light issue in case anyone has the same problem. As in a previous post, my check engine light went stuck on after changing to a new exhaust and a Power Commander with Autotune but NO O2 optimizer connector. Tried a 3rd-party optimizer, and a home brew version with the resistor values recommended by Kaw’ee, and no matter what I tried (manual recommended clearing procedure AND my dealer clearing the code), the light remained on. Went thru the wiring and connectors one more time, and convinced myself the only item left to fail was the ECU itself. Found one on eBay for 69 bucks and installed today. SUCCESS! Was fairly shocked to see the light go off after I started the engine, and has remained off for 60 miles of several rides today.

All I can think of is in all my mods and subsequent troubleshooting, maybe I shorted something out and damaged that portion of the ECU...

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 05:41 PM
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So no 02 optimizer in now ?

Check your ECU # (pic)
Hate to say, But most the ones on eBay are the Recalled ones and throw away's and why there so cheep , But not sure if there ok or good enough with using a fuel controller .

(Stalling problem with original ECU's)
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post
So no 02 optimizer in now ?

Check your ECU # (pic)
Hate to say, But most the ones on eBay are the Recalled ones and throw away's and why there so cheep , But not sure if there ok or good enough with using a fuel controller .

(Stalling problem with original ECU's)
.
All good points. The photos had all numbers visible so I looked them up first.

I was reluctant to pay full price for a new one from my dealer as THEY kept saying “it’s your wiring, not your ECU”. So in essence this was a proof-of-concept anyway. Since I don’t know the real history of where this unit came from, I’ll likely replace it over the winter with a new one.

And yes, I’m running a modified O2 optimizer with the resistor values you recommended. Thanks!

JW
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 01:26 AM
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you by any chance have a wiring diagram resistor values and pinouts to build an o2 optimizer? I've been running my autotune with the O2 sensor plugged in as per Dynojet. I'd like to see if theres any change with a steady state o2 readout
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:31 AM
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you by any chance have a wiring diagram resistor values and pinouts to build an o2 optimizer? I've been running my autotune with the O2 sensor plugged in as per Dynojet. I'd like to see if theres any change with a steady state o2 readout
There is a thread on here discussing this, not sure what the title was though. Pinout, connector, and suggested resistors was in there.

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_E View Post
There is a thread on here discussing this, not sure what the title was though. Pinout, connector, and suggested resistors was in there.
https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...gine-code.html
..
KawasakiBrad will be making some if he finds the right connectors.
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Last edited by Kaw'ee; 08-28-2019 at 01:15 PM.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post
https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...gine-code.html
..
KawasakiBrad will be making some if he finds the right connectors.
.
Finally got the connectors in and they fit EXACTLY. Soldered up a set and it's currently in the Z125. I'll run it for a week or 2 to make sure there's not an intermittent fault before they show up on the site.

I did an experiment on my ZX10 with dual bungs and KNOWN, confirmed, and calibrated output on a real time display. Running the Z125 sensor on the second bung and measure the output voltage on the signal side while it's seeing 13.0. Then duplicate that voltage on the bypass plug so the bike thinks it's at 13.0 AFR. Simply bypassing the sensor in such a way that it doesn't trigger a CEL could cause poor running due to the ECM attempting to correct an imaginary condition, and not getting any feedback on it's corrections.

Anyways, the internal circuitry is going to have to remain a trade secret for now. But barring unforeseen circumstances they'll be for sale beginning Friday Sept6.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 02:41 PM
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Kaw'ee, yours is in the mail because even though I didn't order from the sites you recommended they did help in tracking down the part number.

Constructive criticism is welcome.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 02:53 PM
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Is that just a shorting plug to trigger the internal blinky? They look nice, is that epoxy resin cast around the connector?

When I did my bluetooth to Buell adapter, I tried resin, but it made a huge mess. Ended up using hot glue and cutting it afterwords with a razor.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg_E View Post
Is that just a shorting plug to trigger the internal blinky? They look nice, is that epoxy resin cast around the connector?

When I did my bluetooth to Buell adapter, I tried resin, but it made a huge mess. Ended up using hot glue and cutting it afterwords with a razor.
Thank you!

Not exactly a shorting plug. It duplicates the resistance of the heater circuit and steps the voltage down on the signal circuit to provide what the stock one does at 13:1 AFR.

It is a casting resin since I am sure hot glue won't last long, which would cause angry customers, and then I'll just be sad .

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