Intermittent loud engine ticking at idle - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Intermittent loud engine ticking at idle

........I have just shy of 500 miles on the bike. Changed the oil and filter @ 200 miles. I do ride her hard up to redline, but I check the oil regularly. Oil level is at full on dipstick per oil level checking procedure in the owner's manual. Noise is a first for me tonight and has seemed to go away. Has anyone ever experienced this? Thanks.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 12:44 PM
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If you have more info' that would be good for the Motor experts here
.
Here's a couple of threads on the same issue
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https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...mal-video.html
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https://www.z125owners.com/forum/eng...-low-idle.html
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https://www.z125owners.com/forum/eng...my-engine.html
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https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...op-engine.html
.
This link is a fast way to find specific problems and issues , as well as going to the bottom of each thread and reading the "Similar Threads" section
https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...ick-index.html
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you!! I think it's a normal sound, it just seems to become more pronounced as the bike acquires miles. My bike sounds like a semi-loud sowing machine at idle, if that helps. Hopefully it's normal, sorry, it's my first thumper.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 502Z125 View Post
........I have just shy of 500 miles on the bike. Changed the oil and filter @ 200 miles. I do ride her hard up to redline, but I check the oil regularly. Oil level is at full on dipstick per oil level checking procedure in the owner's manual. Noise is a first for me tonight and has seemed to go away. Has anyone ever experienced this? Thanks.
Running the engine "hard' and "up to redline" with less than 500 miles on it was NOT a good idea, especially with an aircooled engine that has a total oil capacity of just ONE quart. It's possible that you have provoked the need for a valve adjustment. Hopefully, nothing worse.

Jim G
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 09:51 PM
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Along the line of the need for a valve adjustment:

Here is a PSA. I believe Kawi says something CRAZY like 6500 miles before first valve adjustment. I don't believe it for a second. Every other bike I've ever owned calls for it at initial break in service around 600 miles. Same on the Grom.

They are so ridiculously easy to get to I figured I'd check mine before my trip (my bike has about 1400 miles on it).

Intake was a touch too tight. Exhaust was in spec but at the extreme tight end. You guys may want to check yours, if for nothing else than piece of mind. Only takes 4 bolts to expose the valves, no fairing or gas tank removal. Just make sure you have a 9mm wrench. A garage full of tools and I had to run out for one. My set only had 8 and 10mm. And there is no SAE equivalent for 9mm.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 10:17 PM
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Along the line of the need for a valve adjustment:

Here is a PSA. I believe Kawi says something CRAZY like 6500 miles before first valve adjustment. I don't believe it for a second. Every other bike I've ever owned calls for it at initial break in service around 600 miles. Same on the Grom.

They are so ridiculously easy to get to I figured I'd check mine before my trip (my bike has about 1400 miles on it).

Intake was a touch too tight. Exhaust was in spec but at the extreme tight end. You guys may want to check yours, if for nothing else than piece of mind. Only takes 4 bolts to expose the valves, no fairing or gas tank removal. Just make sure you have a 9mm wrench. A garage full of tools and I had to run out for one. My set only had 8 and 10mm. And there is no SAE equivalent for 9mm.
Does the 9mm wrench have to be "offset" to get in there properly, or will a straight wrench work?

By the way, on the Yamaha R3, which has a twin 320cc engine that redlines at 12,500 rpm, the first valve adjustment interval is at around 24,000 miles! Which is GREAT, because its valvetrain is 4 valves per cylinder DOHC, with adjustment via shims, which requires breaking the camchain and removing both camshafts to change shims, and it's important to not drop the camchain or any shims into the crankcase during the process! We Z125 owners have it EASY in comparison, sonthere is no excuse for not doing the work!

Jim G
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 10:59 PM
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Jim that's crazy.

I have an old yamaha xj600s seca II air cooled inline 4 with 2 valves per cylinder with those **** shims. I don't have to break the chain or even remove cam shaft there a tool and camshafts have a place to rest it next to the lobes so when you rotate the motor it depresses shim basket and you can get the shim out with some tweezers.

I used offset wrench. Not sure if it was necessary but would make it easier for sure just because space is tight.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 11:09 PM
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Jim that's crazy.

I have an old yamaha xj600s seca II air cooled inline 4 with 2 valves per cylinder with those **** shims. I don't have to break the chain or even remove cam shaft there a tool and camshafts have a place to rest it next to the lobes so when you rotate the motor it depresses shim basket and you can get the shim out with some tweezers.

I used offset wrench. Not sure if it was necessary but would make it easier for sure just because space is tight.
It's no longer that easy on most of the new bikes. Check out the service manual for the Yamaha R3! Scary. And very expensive when done at a dealership, but who has a complete enough set of shims even, or any of the required special tools, or the experienced skills, to do it at home anymore? Plus, you have to take off a BUNCH of body parts to even GET to the engine and then to the camshafts and shims.

I miss "the old days" where we rebuilt bikes and engines in people's garages or basements with readily available and inexpensive tools.

On my first motorcycle, a 1967 Suzuki T5 200cc 2-stroke, my college roommate and I removed the engine from the bike in about 90 minutes, and carried its engine to the local dealership on a city bus! Try that today . . .

Jim G
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. Does anyone have any knowledge of a good video that I can watch about adjusting the valves please?
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 502Z125 View Post
Thanks for the replies. Does anyone have any knowledge of a good video that I can watch about adjusting the valves please?
I do not have a video, but just Google "Kawasaki Z125 valve adjustment". If you don't get anything that way, then Google "Kawasaki Z125 big bore kit installation", and find one that includes a modified or different cylinder head, as the installation of any kit that includes a modified or different head will include adjusting the (new) valve clearances of course.

Jim G
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