Intermittent loud engine ticking at idle - Page 3 - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Jim G, she likes it like that, lol. I tried doing the Kawasaki break-in, but I would get killed where I live, so I let her rip tater chip. All of the "break-in" searches on here basically stated the aforementioned procedure, lol.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 11:41 PM
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Jim G, she likes it like that, lol. I tried doing the Kawasaki break-in, but I would get killed where I live, so I let her rip tater chip. All of the "break-in" searches on here basically stated the aforementioned procedure, lol.
Now that I have read the owners manual and taken 2 rides, I understand what you mean. If you follow the owners manual which says don't go above 4000rpm for the first half of the breakin period, you can't go any faster than 27 mph = 44 kph !! WHERE can you do THAT and not get run over?

I think maybe that user manual instruction should actually have read something like this:

"Do not spin the engine to unnecessarily high rpm or put the engine under high loads, particularly prolonged high loads, during the breakin period, but also do not LUG the engine (i.e do not operate it at so low an rpm that it has trouble accelerating or maintaining speed). Where a little more power is needed to maintain a safe speed in traffic, or to climb a slope, use more rpm versus more throttle, by shifting down if necessary."

THAT would make more sense.

Jim G
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 08:36 PM
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Hey guys, I'm going to do this valve check really soon. One question in my mind about feeler gage and MotionPro tool access to the intake valve rocker arm and adjuster:

The clearance between the airbox and the intake valve adjuster and rocker arm looks very tight. MrEvilPirate, you said taking the LID off the airbox is sufficient to get in there, but is it maybe a lot easier to get a good, accurate measurement and then a good, accurate adjustment, by removing the entire airbox?

I'm just thinking that getting a feeler gage PROPERLY between the rockerarm and the valve stem from the FRONT of the bike looks impossible, and doing it from the REAR direction the airbox would seem to be right where you need your hand to be while holding and push/pulling the feeler gage, and then while holding the adjuster while tightening the locknut.

I'm thinking this will be the case using EITHER the feeler gage method, or Greg's 1/8 turn and 1/5 to 1/4 turn method, because even with Greg's method, you need to get the Motion Pro tool in there and be ale to HOLD the adjuster reliably steady while turning the locknut.

Am I correct, or is it easier than it looks to get the work done with the airbox, without its lid, still in place?

I don't like pulling the airbox if I don't have to, as it also requires removing both the left and right side body panels, disconnecting the intake tube, and then pulling the airbox out despite its strenuous objections to get clear of everything. If you can do the work without pulling the airbox, it would be especially helpful if both valves are within spec, and you can then just re-install the valve covers, the T mark access plug, and the alternator nut access plug, and be done. That would be a FRACTION of the time.

Jim G

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 11:54 PM
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I would suggest getting some brass shim stock and cutting job specific feelers, I did this for my KAYO because getting a regular feeler in there is very difficult. Brass will hold up and is pretty common for shim stock in the thinner sizes. Though with the smaller dimension you may want stainless shim, you'd need 0.002 and 0.004 inch material. Measure the thickness to verify and cut out some chunks. File the edges where cut to remove burrs which will probably be thicker.

Can't help with the airbox question since I haven't done this job yet.

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