Intermittent loud engine ticking at idle - Page 2 - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 11:28 AM
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Thanks for the replies. Does anyone have any knowledge of a good video that I can watch about adjusting the valves please?
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https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...tml#post118323
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 12:18 PM
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That video is pretty good but you may need something a bit more if you have never done a valve adjustment before on any machine.

The Z has adjusting nuts, not shims so it is much easier.

You should watch Ka'wee's vid, then go on youtube and watch a bunch more to get a feel for it. Then re-watch the Z vid it will make more sense. An older ninja 250 has the same type of adjusting nuts as the Z, and before the latest gen they went for like 25 years without any changes so there should be a ton of vids on it. Skip the ones that mention shims, they don't apply here.

You need feeler gauges. Tough to describe how to use them... the gauge should slightly drag as you use it... not too too tight where you can barely get it in, not too loose where there is little to know metal to metal contact.

You will need to take the cover of the air box off (like when you remove the filter), not the whole box. It is like 6 or 8 screws, no big deal. Get the horn out of the way too... (1) 8mm bolt.

When you are done rotate the engine (2 times to get back to TDC) and double check your clearances to make sure they are good.

I always set valves to the looser end of the spec because they tend to tighten up over time. Take your seat off look at the base of the tank you will see the valve specs there. Don't confuse inches and mms.

One final tip... The 'T' mark may be aligned but you may not be at TDC of compression stroke (where you want to be to do the adjustment). Get the 'T' mark centered in the view port and wiggle the arm that has the adjusting nut on it. It should ever so slightly move. If it doesn't rotate engine another 360 degrees.

It takes some patience to find a good angle to get the feeler gauge into the intake valve. Exhaust is a piece of cake. Good luck.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 12:24 PM
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You do not "need" feeler gauges. The thread pitch is 0.5mm on the adjusters. SO to get the two different values, you want go until the adjuster touches the valve, then back out 1/8 turn for the smaller size and 1/4 turn for the larger size. Zip, bang, done.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 02:25 PM
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Greg- that's clever. Although I personally would want to verify with the gauges.

When you tighten the adjuster nut sometimes the clearance tightens a bit. You need to check afterwards. The clearances are so small I wouldn't trust myself to judge an 1/8 turn and remember the orientation to confirm it didn't move after tightening the adjuster. And gauges are like 3 bucks.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 02:30 PM
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I verified a couple times, then stopped checking for my own uses. Where I do check with gauges is before I loosen the locknut, if it needs adjustment then I follow that procedure. The change is as simple as a single flat for quarter turn, or a flat to a point for the eighth turn. The locknut should only ever increase the clearance, it is pulling the adjuster away from the valve by the slop in the threads, generally these little thread pitches don't have a lot of slop. If they do have slop, you probably need to toss the rocker arm in the trash. That's been my experience with the clone parts in my KAYO, the replacement Yamaha parts have had much better tolerances.
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Last edited by Greg_E; 09-14-2018 at 02:32 PM.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 03:33 PM
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I find tightening the lock nut tightens the clearance because it causes the adjuster to spin (and tighten). I will try this myself though the next time I need an adjustment.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 03:47 PM
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You do need a wrench on the adjuster, several companies make something to do this, or just cut a piece of flat stock to grab two flats which is what I've been doing. Cut a notch in scrap piece of a stainless worm clamp band, it put up a fight for a decent length of time, need to make another cheap tool for this job.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 03:54 PM
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You do need a wrench on the adjuster, several companies make something to do this, or just cut a piece of flat stock to grab two flats which is what I've been doing. Cut a notch in scrap piece of a stainless worm clamp band, it put up a fight for a decent length of time, need to make another cheap tool for this job.
I just ordered the Motion Pro tappet adjustment kit. It is a clever design that controls the adjustor while tightening the locknut. Its expensive in Canada - over $40 CDN, but includes everything you need to 8,9, or 10mm nuts with 3 sizes/types of adjustor heads, so absically can probably handle any valve adjsutment other than shim setups.

It is also shaped to get a perfect hold on locknut and adjustor, so no rounding of locknut corners or wrenches slipping off while tightening.

It apparently makes the job easy and exact, and that's what I like.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 04:23 PM
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That tool would make the job easier for sure. I just used offset box wrench and some miniature spring loaded needle nose pliers 'cause that's what I had.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 05:51 PM
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I really need to order that set, the KAYO is 8mm and square adjuster, the Z is 9mm and square. And maybe I should use the Kawasaki nuts on the KAYO since they are slightly larger and would provide slightly higher clamping force. At 10,000rpm those nuts tend to come loose on the KAYO which can cause all sorts of issues. So far nothing has been permanently damaged from the nut coming completely off.

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