Z125 check engine light - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Z125 check engine light

I recently just picked up a 2017 Z125 with a PC5 and Autotune. It has a check engine light and i figured it was O2 sensor related because of the autotune. I went and checked the code and it was code 33 (P0130/P0132). This code is listed as "Oxygen sensor inactivation, wiring open or short". The bike also has an O2 sensor delete plug with the 220 ohm and 46.6K ohm resistors on it. I tried riding the bike around for about 1.5 hours today making sure i turned the key off then on, idled for 30 sec-1min then rode at 25+mph for 5-10 min and repeated that 4 times.

I was wondering if any of you all have experience with this and could help me get rid of this light?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 12:00 PM
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I'd contact KAWASAKIBRAD @ his website
Hes the only one that seems to have a handle on the whole thing and willing to explain it

His o2 bypass plug got rid of my CEL

https://kawasakibrad.com/shop?olsPag...-sensor-bypass

Troubleshooting
Find out if your stock 02 sensor (or your delete plug) is the problem or not
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post
I'd contact KAWASAKIBRAD @ his website
Hes the only one that seems to have a handle on the whole thing and willing to explain it

His o2 bypass plug got rid of my CEL


Troubleshooting
Find out if your stock 02 sensor (or your delete plug) is the problem or not
I checked the resistances of the O2 bypass plug and they were ~220 ohm and 46.6k ohm. I will try talking to him to figure out more.
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Last edited by cdl723; 01-27-2020 at 01:48 PM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 03:36 PM
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Thanks again Kaw'ee for the mention. Can't tell you how much I appreciate those.

@cdl723 I responded to your email. I didn't have much good news for you but a quick copy and paste for anyone else who is interested (that may be experiencing the same issue).

Quote from email to Connor:

Those ohm values are not correct for a properly functioning sensor bypass. Probably the problem.
Plugging two resistors in (even if they were the correct value) won't solve the problem alone. Loose connections, especially intermittent connections will cause that
code to re appear (even a drop of water). The resistors need the correct load rating as well.

Anyways, this is the reason I spent so much time developing and testing my O2 bypass. All connections are soldered (not crimped), the unit is sealed with epoxy so
weather and moisture are not an issue, and the connector is an exact match made by the same quality manufacturer as the OEM one (can't vibrate loose or get an
intermittent connection.


Let's not forget that we're not just trying to turn the light off. We need to tell the ECU that the engine is running clean. Sure, the light could turn off but the ECU could be making it's maximum amount of available correction based on an incorrect "assumed" sensor reading. This can be a real b!tc# to track down since it will vary with throttle position and if you have a ZX6 or ZX10 with an IAT it gets even worse FAST. A properly functioning sensor bypass will tell the ECU that everything is fine, do not correct. That way the secondary fuel controller (PowerCommander, Bazzaz, etc) can do it's job without fighting the ECU.
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