Heavy Duty clutch install and why it had to be done. - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Heavy Duty clutch install and why it had to be done.

So, let's discuss the clutch on these machines, please refer to the install video I did on this and note that I mentioned I may follow up on the cause for the replacement:


I finally took some time to look over the old clutch and took a few pictures (attached). Those are not burn marks (yet), they are simply the areas where the disks were sliding. But notice how little of the disk is actually scuffed, and notice the irregular pattern. I don't have a flat surface to give them a proper check, but I'm guessing they are not completely flat, or that their thickness varies. I assume this lead to the shuddering feeling I had when slipping the clutch out, and the over all weak engagement until the entire pack locked up after releasing the lever.

Still haven't ridden with the new clutch yet, hopefully in the next day or so. Waiting for paint to dry on a part so I can put the clip-ons back on.
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 11:01 PM
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You can check flatness by placing a plate down on any surface and setting another one on top of it , then spin just the top plate at 15 degree intervals . the gap will change around to different locations if bad and check inside and outside of plates.

And if they check pretty flat that way then flip just the top plate in case they are Dished shape / then either the outside or inside will have a gap.
(two plates dished in the same direction will have no gap)
.
Or most of the windows in a house are pretty flat or a thick mirror is even better, when you have nothing else. then use feeler gauges of course to check the flatness .
.
I know you know Greg, but for others following, the service manual max out of flatness is .010 and be sure to check the inside as well as outside edges
.
If the .010 feeler gage gos under the plate at ANY location outside or inside the plate is out of tolerance.


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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot that I could stack them together. Most of them were marked on the sharp side (down when punched out of the press), only the one showed anything odd on the rounded side.

I'm probably going to mark this down as the stock clutch in the 18's is just garbage.

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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 12:15 AM
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Not just the 18's / bad clutches at 2.5 miles back in the 2016's here on the forum
.
https://www.z125owners.com/forum/eng...-5k-miles.html
.
Soooooooooo ............
Clutch free play setting (but shouldn't make it chatter only slip)
The plates are not flat (maybe only go out of flat at slipping heat up use)
The friction plates are not flat (the pads are adhered to a plate)
The springs are just to week
Motor Oil Type / synthetic's can to be slippery
Something is wrong with the whole stack up of designed tolerances (bad design)
Any others ?
KLX 110's share the same part numbers I wonder if they have same amount of week/bad clutches ?

If MrEvilpirate clutch is fine now after being replaced with the stock parts then it's looking like it has to be the PLATES or SPRINGS !
.
And hes thinking most of same things from his post i see
https://www.z125owners.com/forum/eng...tml#post118199
.
But ya, if yours is slippin or chattering . should just to the HD clutch upgrade . I Dont think Kawasaki is going to step up and do a Recall even if its just springs or plates


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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 10:07 AM
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Off subject a bit. Kawasaki watches these forums, as does all other manufactures too. They don't have a rep that chimes in... they should, as does GM and another manufacturer (can't remember who it was). The reps that do chime in gave good SOLID input and stated they would take info back to the higher-ups.

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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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In my case, I know cable free play was not an issue. When the clutch stated feeling funny (like 10 miles), I increased the free play to about 1/8 inch between cable housing and clutch lever. I think they just need heavier springs.

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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox Fader View Post
Off subject a bit. Kawasaki watches these forums, as does all other manufactures too. They don't have a rep that chimes in... they should, as does GM and another manufacturer (can't remember who it was). The reps that do chime in gave good SOLID input and stated they would take info back to the higher-ups.
.
Well then there's a ray of hope
.
So we all should do what MrEvilpirate did and take it back and have it fixed at least once so the repair's paper trail will show up for Kawasaki and they can see there might be a problem Provided we can convince them its a MFG defect problem and have it replaced for free.. I gotta think most owners will figure out the real problem through other people and forums and just do the upgrade route at our expense .
Then again I'm sure they know that .
.
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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At $35 and a couple hours (because I was recording a video), it wasn't worth my time to drag the bike down and let it sit for days or weeks. Especially when I knew I would get the same old weak springs installed.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_E View Post
At $35 and a couple hours (because I was recording a video), it wasn't worth my time to drag the bike down and let it sit for days or weeks. Especially when I knew I would get the same old weak springs installed.
+1 / It was just meant as a wishful metaphor


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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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So I took it for a spin tonight and some funny things. Started off fine and went through several stops just fine. Felt good compared to the wimpy stock clutch. Got many miles down the road and has another stop... engine slows and stalls. Mess with it a little more and figure out I need to keep the revs up and take off for home. Next stop and it's had to to change gears and I feel it dragging at the stop. Next stop a little bit later and I luck out with a green light but it is really hard to shift, can't get neutral to glide into a parking lot so gently run in first and kill switch to stop. The cable was now super slack and had to dial out a bunch of free play. The it was fine again. Not sure why it changed so fast, but it did, so take this as a warning to adjust several times in the first few stops after it gets hot.

Unrelated but my bike gets up to 60 (indicated) pretty quickly when I'm tucked behind the cheapo windshield.

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