ignition help - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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ignition help

i have managed to get myself into a bit of a jam somehow. a couple weeks ago i overheated the engine and punched a hole in the top of the piston. with that being said, i ordered a new piston. everything else was visibly unaffected. so now that i have the new piston, i went to punch the old wrist pin out which was frozen in the rod by the way, and install and put everything back together. i disconnected the spark plug wire so that i could just prime the engine to get the oil circulated. i did this a couple times. after that i plugged in the spark plug and got absolutely nothing. the engine will turn and i have really good compression, but no spark. i checked the coil with my multimeter and the output is spot on. i am baffled as to what this could be.

so a run down of the bike
stock internals with only a 143 TB kit with a V1 head
yoshi pipe-not really anything to affect the ignition here

bazzaz zfi and afm
i utilize or at least leave both O2 sensors plugged in. not sure if that helps or hurts this engine, but i cant make any changes without the bazzaz unit.


is there any other way to check ignition through the bazzaz unit or do i have to just ground the computer and read the CEL flashes on the dash?
where can i find a list of error codes? i have racking my brain just tracking down why i have no spark i havent really looked for codes.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren Malaer View Post
i disconnected the spark plug wire so that i could just prime the engine to get the oil circulated. i did this a couple times. after that i plugged in the spark plug and got absolutely nothing. the engine will turn and i have really good compression, but no spark. i checked the coil with my multimeter and the output is spot on. i am baffled as to what this could be.
so you checked for spark with a plug in the cap against engine ?

https://www.z125owners.com/forum/kaw...tml#post133723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren Malaer View Post

bazzaz zfi and afm
i utilize or at least leave both O2 sensors plugged in. not sure if that helps or hurts this engine, but i cant make any changes without the bazzaz unit.
theres a good post on this, cant find it now ... but will !!
or KAWASAKIBRAD WILL SEE THIS AND EXPLAIN IT

https://kawasakibrad.com/shop?olsPag...-sensor-bypass

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren Malaer View Post

is there any other way to check ignition through the bazzaz unit or do i have to just ground the computer and read the CEL flashes on the dash?
where can i find a list of error codes? i have racking my brain just tracking down why i have no spark i havent really looked for codes.
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If you have a CEL light on always take advantage of what the code is, if not for now but later problems

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-24-2020, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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well i have checked the clutch switch, vds, and the kick stand sensors. all of them have checked out good. im guessing my next option is to disconnect the piggy back bazzaz system and see if that works. im almost certain the ecu took a dump though. i did end up getting the service manual, all 507 pages of the thing. i have sifted through some of it trying to figure anything out. while it has a ton of useful info in it, i just couldnt find much on trouble shooting. sort of like a flowchart type diagram.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 02:39 AM
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Ignition system troubleshoot flowchart page 436

Ignition system wiring diagram page 438

General Trouble shooting 504 - 507

just in case: the manual has all 3 models included ,
make sure your only reading BR125J' pages not BR125G OR BR125H

Only things i've actually tested so far is bike turn over but not start and you have 12.6volts at cranking, and if your ruling out fuel problems

but dont know if these stop spark at plug or not

Ignition key switch anti-theft resistor bad
If fuel pump only cycles for 1 second only is sign
check for 6volt return (pic)

Diode # 2 under seat / page 435 or

VDS sensor maybe do the by-pass instead of test to confirm (pic)

crackshaft sensor page 125

coil you did / for reference my actuals for my bike were
Primary @ 2.9 / secondary ( GOING THROUGH CAP" (so+5K) @12.97K

sidestand switches seams to have a mysterious problem and faulty for a lot of people, Have some theories on that but a by-pass there as well might help. even though it test good
connect wires before switch for closed loop

Is whatever overheated your engine a possible cause or unrelated


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post

Only things i've actually tested so far when bike will turn over but not start

((but dont know if these stop spark at plug or not))

Ignition key switch anti-theft resistor bad
If fuel pump only cycles for 1 second only is sign
check for 6volt return (pic)

Diode # 2 under seat / page 435 or

VDS sensor maybe do the by-pass instead of test to confirm (pic)

crackshaft sensor page 125
I did check for spark today and ....

Still has spark with VDS unplugged (so scratch that)

No spark with the rest unplugged

Ignition key theft lock out (If fuel pump cycles no need to test / scratch that)

Crankshaft sensor
Diode #2 (start lockout system)

Please let me know what you find
Theres 3 other bikes right now with same issue
.
Like you say, ECU or BAZZAZ seems more likely ..


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Last edited by Kaw'ee; 01-26-2020 at 06:24 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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i bypassed the VDS for now, still same issue. i have a buddy that has a Z as well. we will be swapping ECU to see if that is related. Other than that, i really havent had a ton of time to commit to troubleshooting this issue. i plan on getting out there later today.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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well im ruling out the ecu. we swapped our stock units and the problem persists. his bike started right up with my computer. head scratching commences.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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ok, so maybe i have it finally. i just forced myself to go back out to the garage and do a good one more time over everything. checked all the connections just to make sure i didnt pull some boneheaded move. everything checked out good. next i rechecked the coil, since i wasnt getting any spark to begin with. this time the primary checked out at 2.7 ohm ( a little high but not enough to worry) and the secondary wouldnt read at all. multiple attempts on probe position and all came up with same results. if this is just a bad coil then that will be an easy fix. keep you guys posted once that is replaced.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2020, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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ok so the problem has been located and fixed. turns out that when i dropped the engine to install the head and intake, i removed the two upper engine mounting bolts. when i put them back in the rear most upper bolt got the harness wires trapped underneath the nut. had broken one of the wires in two pieces. spliced them back together and bam, it fired right up. this was all after i replaced what i thought was a bad coil. so now i have a new coil.
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