Engine Bogging in 4th and 3rd geat - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
j r
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Engine Bogging in 4th and 3rd geat

Hi everyone. I'm really frustrated with my Z I have a loop exhaust, and M-Intake, HD clutch, and Lightened primary

Long story short, I installed a Bazazz couple months ago. Decided to go with Aracer instead.

After removing the Bazazz I've got a problem with my Z. It still does it with the Aracer installed so don't know what to do. No check engine light is on with the Aracer installed.

It starts, idles great, shifts into gears up and down smooth, shifts from 1-3 fine. Will hit redline easy in neutral, 1 and 2 gear but.....

When I shift into 4th gear, the bike will no longer accelerate, even with giving it throttle. It boggs down. It is like the bike is hitting limp mode, but I know the Aracer isn't doing that. It will keep doing that when I downshift to 3rd, and then seems to somewhat go away in 2nd and 1st but I have been returning home when this occurs.

I've talked to some vendors about it, and they say to check all the wiring, especially where the Bazazz T-Tapped into the wiring harness. I attempted to patch the wires with sealant and electrical tape where the taps were, but that didn't fix the issue.

I also made sure all battery connections are tight, as well as the ground to the frame.

Battery is brand new and fully charged.

Any ideas on what this might be ???

Anyone local to Northern California that is Z-125 expert wanting to help a fellow member out and check it out by chance , I'm near Redding, California.

Thanks Everyone
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 04:40 PM
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Same thing with 2 different fuel controllers would make you think its not a fuel controller issue ... BUT ...

FREE' / I would remove the fuel controller and ABSOLUTELY CONFIRM its a fuel controller issue OR is it a bike issue.

$150+ / You need to have it Dyno'ed anyways to get any real benefit of a fuel controller and make sure its set for YOUR BIKE & YOUR MODS for your riding LOCATION ... and if there is a REAL ISSUE they should see it and you didnt pay $150+ just to find out whats wrong and then still need a Dyno


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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
j r
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Hi Ka'wee.

It did it once the Bazazz was removed, and it was running on the stock computer. On the stock computer the bike had the issue. With the Aracer installed has the same issue. With Bazazz had check engine light on, without the Bazazz had the check engine light on, and after the Aracer no check engine light.

I have the Auto Tune for the Aracer, but haven't got the 18mm bung installed yet on my exhuast.

So I think it is a bike issue, not a fuel controller issue.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 10:20 AM
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Bad gas? Fouled plug? Valves out of adjustment?


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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j r View Post
especially where the Bazazz T-Tapped into the wiring harness
I can't believe anyone would use those. Throw those lumps of garbage away.

They are either your current problem, a contributing factor to it, or soon to be a problem. I hear all the time "I checked them". I assume that means they visually look ok?
What else did you check? Continuity ok under load and vibration? Continuity good under heat? Continuity while it's being vibrated while it's hot and maybe picked up a water droplet or two?
Not possible. Those stupid things should be illegal.

Second, a tuner is only as good as the tune. Downloading a base map isn't a tune. It's a base map. Get the thing tuned.

Anything can kill you. Pick something fun.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 12:10 AM
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Where in NorCal you at?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 01:51 AM
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Could be so many things but we can keep chipping away at it if you want and maybe someone of us will notice something.

Questions i would still have all while using the ''stock ECU only''
(did you get a few runs in for the ECU to relearn)
(absolutely the same exact problem as fuel controllers rules out Bazazz T-Tapped)
(if it does it with no fuel controller i would use the stock ECU until its figured out)

Did you get the CEL code
(could really help to know if its a fuel or electrical issue)
(are you willing to go back to the stock ECU in hopes of a CEL code again)

Does it run fine again in 1st through 3rd after sitting for a while
(ever hear a vacuum sucking sound popping the gas cap open immediately after riding)(gas fill up with helmet off maybe)

So its running bad still in lower gears going home , once it acted up

Next time it acts up go full throttle and lay on the horn for 10sec count
(horn should stay at full volume ( no to very weak horn under 11Volts (elec' issue)

How many things in the red boxes can absolutely rule out in the below pic
(depends on your test equipment and tools available as well as mechanical knowledge )

Or ..$$$.. Take it to dealer
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 01:52 AM
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Iím wondering if a tps reset might fix it?
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 02:06 AM
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Any and all FREE checks and settings is worth trying

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2019, 03:05 AM
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Actually if you unplugged the ECU at any point , defiantly do the ECU reset
.
Basically just don't start/ride the bike while doing the 5secs key on/key off cycles
..
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