LED headlight? - Page 11 - Kawasaki Z125 Forum
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post #101 of 110 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 09:23 PM
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With the days getting shorter, and me driving more in the dark coming home from work, I'm eyeing this as my next mod.
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post #102 of 110 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaw'ee View Post
I myself removed the stock the City light completely and defiantly would not want a LED in there.
A brighter light on the road right in front of you just creates glare . The problem with glare is that is causes your eyes to dilate and reduces your ability to see in the darkness farther and better.
But theres other needs by some that can benefit from them.

Are you back to stock? Or did you find another option that provided you the best results.


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post #103 of 110 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 01:44 PM
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No to stock bulb.

I have the cyclops 10.0 Ultra in the Z' still and took out the Native 4 bulb (a 50 dollar bulb) out of my other bike because the the cyclops 10.0 Ultra (even at 90 bucks) is just to impressive of a lite not to have one in both bikes.
And both have a DOT complainant beam to on coming traffic. I have not been flashed by a on coming driver even once yet !

The cyclops is a EXTREMELY bright light and maybe even to bright for the rider that dosen't need the maximum brightest light on the market.

Most just wanting a decent brighter light the 2000 lumens lights are twice as bright as the stock bulb and also a great light for the 70% of most riders
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post #104 of 110 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 07:27 PM
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I am so sorry guys I never got to do the job, we were doing furniture delivery and installation, cleanup, etc. and the LED bulb is not high on my priority list. I be back there shortly and I should have plenty of time to swap it out again.


The only thing I can confirm is that the stock bulb is miserable lol.



Do I just undo the two allen bolts at the top, behind the headlight on each side and the headlight will pop down?
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post #105 of 110 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 07:45 PM
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Do I just undo the two allen bolts at the top, behind the headlight on each side and the headlight will pop down?
Essentially. It actually pops up off of two posts on the bottom of the assembly. The two bolts at the top aren't really holding any weight.

Turn signals are color coded so just unscrew, unplug, and remove. Assembly is the reverse.

Dropped a gear... . . . . . . . . . . ...still here
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post #106 of 110 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 08:36 PM
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I tried doing this tonight but the allen bolts are so tight, I got one off but I stripped the other one to ****. How can I remove the bolt now that it is so stripped? I don't think I can bite around the bolt since it is a button head.
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post #107 of 110 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 01:06 AM
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Well, thats gonna suck no matter which route you go. (sorry)

Drill and use e-z out/extractor .. need some skills, drills and e-z out extractors for that

Using the side of a File and file down head off flush and pry tab off remaining bolt if you have access down from the top

Using a Hacksaw blade only and hacksaw a slot at middle for straight blade screw driver

Just looked at mine and kinda looks like you might have a straight shot access from top
But i have roc risers, re-routed cables and my light is lifted , so dont know about stock access ?
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post #108 of 110 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 10:42 AM
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I would use the saw blade or rotary tool to cut a slot as my first attempt. Then I would get a drill bit tat is slightly larger than the threads and drill the head off. Once the pressure is removed, the rest of the bolt should come out.

You could also try a left hand drill bit if you can gt the right size, the heat and vibration from drilling may be enough to get it to back out.

Another alternate is to get a Torx bit that almost fits, and hammer it into the hole so it bites, I might try that before the saw since it is easier. You may wreck the Torx bit in this process! Once you have this done, an impact driver might also help. Turn it hard the way you want to go, then whack it with a hammer really hard. It drives the bit into the fastener, and a cam inside gives it a hard turn too. They normally work really well and a tool everyone should own (and a big hammer to do the whacking). https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...ase-64812.html

[edit] Looking at that driver from Harbor Freight makes me think it is wimpy, check Autozone or other stores for something with a little more beef to it. Remember you are going to be whacking this thing, so it needs to be tough. Still not going to be expensive.
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Last edited by Greg_E; 11-22-2019 at 10:45 AM.
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post #109 of 110 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 05:05 PM
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Thanks guys. I ordered a pair of replacement allen head bolts from babbits online. Next month when I am down there, I will pickup an impact screwdriver and a bit set (a sacrificial bit set, lol) and I will try hitting it with a hammer.


I need to replace that bolt head I stripped, but I also want to change the god **** headlight to the MNNTHBX LED I bought.


On a lighter note, I did put over 150 miles on the bike in just a few days. I now have 250+ miles on the bike and it is incredible. I will change the oil at 300 miles, and then I'll change it again at 600 miles and that's when I am done with engine break-in. I have not been over 6K rpm yet, I am very sensitive about my break-in procedure for my toys.
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post #110 of 110 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MrElusive View Post
Thanks guys. I ordered a pair of replacement allen head bolts from babbits online. Next month when I am down there, I will pickup an impact screwdriver and a bit set (a sacrificial bit set, lol) and I will try hitting it with a hammer.


I need to replace that bolt head I stripped, but I also want to change the god **** headlight to the MNNTHBX LED I bought.


On a lighter note, I did put over 150 miles on the bike in just a few days. I now have 250+ miles on the bike and it is incredible. I will change the oil at 300 miles, and then I'll change it again at 600 miles and that's when I am done with engine break-in. I have not been over 6K rpm yet, I am very sensitive about my break-in procedure for my toys.
HAH! I bought mine in and after a couple of "slower" rips around the neigborhood i took it to the track..... I am a bit over 300 miles and its all track days and racing. My engine won't last long

Ride Safe
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